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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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hey guys.. i'm new here.. this looks like a great forum.... i've got a ppi pcx-1250 amp hooked up to 2 jbl 12" 4-ohm subs ran the wires in parallel... i just installed everything lastnight and when i went to hookup the laat thing which was the + terminal on my battery.. it blew the in-line fuse.. the fusebox i have has a little light in it.. and that little light was on all the time if that helps any of you.. thanks again!!!
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Possible problems:
Reversed B+ and ground connection on the amp Defective amp Wires shorted between the B+ and ground terminals of the amp Screw through the power wire The lit LED means that the fuse is open and there is current flowing through the wire.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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haha b4 i read your post i tried reversing the ground and power wire and that was it... wow this is my first install n it went well... actually sounds better in my 93 accord than in my 98 Lexus GS lol..samesystem.. thanks for the help
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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althjought whe i put it in my GS (still the same system..) the quality and loudness of the sound would randomly with car movement cut down a noticable bit and woudnt hit hard if i turned it up... it seemed to go back n forth with braking and accelerating... so i went to the truck and pulled any wires it was sitting on and put it in place to where it wouldnt moce around as much and that helped... but does that mean i have a weakwire? the remote wirewas under it and i have 4 connectors total piecing that wire together... should i re run some new 14gauge wire that i bough ttoday and that'll help elimate that problem from possible happening again if the amp moves around... i'm gonna buy double sided velvro to secure the amp also... thanks
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It's likely that the problem is an intermittant connection in one of the signal lines. If the signal is lost to one of the inputs, the output (on some amps) will drop. You can remove one to see if the drop is about the same as you heard.
If the signal lines are OK and the voltage at the amp isn't dropping significantly below ~11 volts, the amp may have an intermittant fault.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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