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Old 20th November 2007, 10:20 PM   #51
shagone is offline shagone  United States
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Join Date: Apr 2007
yep 300 watts at 2ohms. mine is the M300 actually. i just looked it up. they have an M500 as well. i'll be looking fore one of those.
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Old 20th November 2007, 10:49 PM   #52
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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I saw one but could not afford it. Also wanted to get a class d sub amp for power reasons, and a better one so it had some quality. The kicker I have is D on the subs and that part works good. I can get rid of some stuff and free up funds once things are swapped over, so if it works nice I might keep an eye out for the M500.

In reality I like to run my stuff full tilt, I want to see the subs near xmax and the amp ready to distort just higher than max volume....when I feel the need to blow the carbon out Having more weight or power draw than needed is pointless in this little car....and a well put together system can be more than the sum of its parts. It just might take 3 years to get right as I can't work on it that often.

They must have added a few watts, or marketing did, for the 301.
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Old 25th November 2007, 06:19 PM   #53
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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PPia600, I found another post with nice pics of that pyramid. I was wondering if that cap laying on top of the board, looks like for B+? What if one replaced it with a newer one with more juice? I want to add the fets too but no time now.
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Old 26th November 2007, 01:30 AM   #54
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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I don't think you will notice any difference changing that horizontal cap.
Have you found any advice from the other members about adding the fets yet? If I was doing it, I'd actually remove the stock ones and then buy all of them with matched date codes to replace, of course the same part number as well. You would need to also add two of the same exact resistors for the gates with the same tolerance.
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Old 26th November 2007, 01:48 AM   #55
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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I didn't ask yet. Was going to look at the board and see how far back stuff goes until I hit. I had thought a lot of stuff was missing but now I see the DIN goes there and don't need that. As long as the driver circuits/etc are there...not going to rebuild the amp I'm not that far along yet. Had to set it aside and get some others done and out of here, getting parts for the rest now but might look it over again before they show up. And lost my solder, doh, just about out and can't find the roll. Have some but don't know what it is, it is Fry brand and small. Was just thinking I'd order a cap too if it made a difference, but odds are I would never use it for subs again anyway. I had just tossed that system in to get it going, now have 4 12s in there. It might run some mid bass 8s well though....hmmm.
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Old 2nd December 2007, 04:38 AM   #56
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally posted by shagone
yep 300 watts at 2ohms. mine is the M300 actually. i just looked it up. they have an M500 as well. i'll be looking fore one of those.

Quote:
Originally posted by jol50
I saw one but could not afford it. Also wanted to get a class d sub amp for power reasons, and a better one so it had some quality. The kicker I have is D on the subs and that part works good. I can get rid of some stuff and free up funds once things are swapped over, so if it works nice I might keep an eye out for the M500.

In reality I like to run my stuff full tilt, I want to see the subs near xmax and the amp ready to distort just higher than max volume....when I feel the need to blow the carbon out Having more weight or power draw than needed is pointless in this little car....and a well put together system can be more than the sum of its parts. It just might take 3 years to get right as I can't work on it that often.

They must have added a few watts, or marketing did, for the 301.

Try this one out

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALPIN...spagenameZWDVW

Or get this one and repair it

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-MRD-M1001...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 2nd December 2007, 05:34 AM   #57
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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Lol, I saw this one go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=020
No coin I have stuff selling now. That bigger one will go high I bet, I been seeing broke amps going really high lately if they have some wattage. No point fixing stuff for free, don't know what they are doing with them. I watched a special edition 275 amp go for $20 one day, the next week I found out PPI made them! The 301 might be enough for the IB subs anyway, I will try it before I get too wound over a 500. Parts get here and maybe that mrv1002 will be working....bet that would dim the lights. Thought it might work on 8" mid bass...you think?
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Old 4th December 2007, 02:35 AM   #58
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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There you go, I don't get it....that blown M500 went for $53 (beat and missing front wire cover), and the other one I posted that worked was all there and was not ripped apart went for $77. So is it worth fixing that beater for $25? You certainly can't resell it and make anything if you have to ship it. If it is blown you always run the risk it could be fubar and not fixable, or not easily fixable. I figure if I buy broke stuff I should be able to make out on it even if I keep it, unless I am just that broke I can't come up with a couple bucks more.
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Old 4th December 2007, 03:02 AM   #59
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
Sucks sometimes. I recently bought a broken orion cobalt 2100 for $40. (400 real american made watts) Then I repaired it. Put it up on ebay with a low $25 reserve, and what do I get? That's right, it sold for $39 frickin dollars. I paid 40, bought parts and repaired it, and it sold for less than I originall paid for it BROKEN. I think I'll just start selling the broken amps I get, probably make more money.
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Old 4th December 2007, 03:39 AM   #60
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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Someone got a good deal, heck I could have used it for that. I bought one but the blown bjt (new term for me lol) is listed at $24, yes just about the same as I paid for the amp Guess I have to go shopping and see if I can find something else or I'll really be stuck on that one and its just a maxxonics. I saw a bunch of sub amps go really high lately, some were $75 for 1kw and they were selling working for 100 at the same time.
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