decent midbass-solid front satge

[SIDEWALKSISSY]

currently, i'm in a car audio school. i decided to do this to learn how to do kick-panels and fabrication with fiberglass. i have a decent amout of experience with car audio but i never got paid doing it. hopefully, i will be able to work and get paid doing something i love to do. the problem is i dont agree with the school or most shops on what they belive to be sq systems. we have an instructor that is running 6 sound stream components in a 2006 gto. the car sounds decent but not spectacular. first, i can't afford all that. i wanna build a system that has a very solid front stage with a good amount of midbass. i listen to 90% metal. i like to play my music at very loud volumes. i was gonna run image dynamic idq 8"s(doors) and neo comp id horns. unfortunently, i got rid of the idq8"s. i would like any type of advice on building a good system that can handle the abuse of puke death metal. slayer rules

buget: front stage(amps,speakers)-$2000
rear stage(amps,subs,materials)-$2000

[ppia600]

Yeah, its kind of hard to get better sq with more components.. unless they are done similar to some high end home units with several drivers of different size for each channel. Running several different drivers of the same size (and tweeters) on each channel makes for better spl, not sq because of all of the phase problems. A set of 8" with compementary mids and highs would sound excellent if properly crossed over, and you could get awesome spl as well. Especially if the power handling and sensitivity were high, and you used a clean high powered amplifier. (A lot of guys on here will know what to recommend for that, haha)

I would recommend a set of image dynamics id8d2's for the front for the midbass and maybe run a clean used ppi pc2350. You could even use another pair of the id8d2's for the rear and run them on the same channels as the front, just be sure to use some powerful front horns/tweets to keep the staging up front. As far as a sub or subs is/are concerned, there many options that would depend on what vehicle you plan on using.

[SIDEWALKSISSY]

Originally posted by ppia600
Yeah, its kind of hard to get better sq with more components.. unless they are done similar to some high end home units with several drivers of different size for each channel. Running several different drivers of the same size (and tweeters) on each channel makes for better spl, not sq because of all of the phase problems. A set of 8" with compementary mids and highs would sound excellent if properly crossed over, and you could get awesome spl as well. Especially if the power handling and sensitivity were high, and you used a clean high powered amplifier. (A lot of guys on here will know what to recommend for that, haha)

I would recommend a set of image dynamics id8d2's for the front for the midbass and maybe run a clean used ppi pc2350. You could even use another pair of the id8d2's for the rear and run them on the same channels as the front, just be sure to use some powerful front horns/tweets to keep the staging up front. As far as a sub or subs is/are concerned, there many options that would depend on what vehicle you plan on using.

rear stage, i meant sub stage. i don't like running mids and highs in the rear. i like a big front stage. yeah, i'd like to run a decent 6.5 and tweet(kick-panel) and an 8" dedicated midbass driver(door). do they make a tweeter that will almost as loud as a horn? one of the best systems i ever heard for metal was idq8's in the doors and neo comp id horns under the dash. i like my system to sound clean but i want it to crank!!!

[junglejuice]

Whilst I don't listen to that type of music I do tend to listen to a wide variety of styles a previous car that I had I decided that I was suitably unimpressed with most of the systems that were getting around so I tried something a little different.
First I went with a company that makes high end European home gear (Canton) and found that they also made a range of car speakers, then I measured the door cards to see what I could physically fit and then checked out the range of 3 way splits that they made for the rear of cars which included mid bass drivers ranging from 6.5" up to 10".
So of course I went for the 10's, they took a bit of work to fit but the effort was well worth it, they sounded as close to a home system that I have heard yet in a car.
The 10's were door mounted and the 5's and 1's were kick panel mounted running passively full range off a Phoenix Gold Outlaw 1845 off the 2 larger channels with 3 JL 10w6's running bridged off the smaller channels.
What I found was that the fronts went down to around 40hz flat and for most music was perfectly fine even without the subs but would not win any spl comps.
Lastly serious sound damping is required and you may find that the doors rattle more than you thought....

[SIDEWALKSISSY]

Originally posted by junglejuice
Whilst I don't listen to that type of music I do tend to listen to a wide variety of styles a previous car that I had I decided that I was suitably unimpressed with most of the systems that were getting around so I tried something a little different.
First I went with a company that makes high end European home gear (Canton) and found that they also made a range of car speakers, then I measured the door cards to see what I could physically fit and then checked out the range of 3 way splits that they made for the rear of cars which included mid bass drivers ranging from 6.5" up to 10".
So of course I went for the 10's, they took a bit of work to fit but the effort was well worth it, they sounded as close to a home system that I have heard yet in a car.
The 10's were door mounted and the 5's and 1's were kick panel mounted running passively full range off a Phoenix Gold Outlaw 1845 off the 2 larger channels with 3 JL 10w6's running bridged off the smaller channels.
What I found was that the fronts went down to around 40hz flat and for most music was perfectly fine even without the subs but would not win any spl comps.
Lastly serious sound damping is required and you may find that the doors rattle more than you thought....

one time i seen 12"s in kick-panels- totally rediculous. i think i wanna run 8"s in the doors active, and decent component in the kicks. the dynaudio 8" 3-way comps look pretty good. i really want this set-up to crank!!!

i've always wanted a car to sound like a good home audio system

[Glowbug]

Dynaudio certainly builds some good drivers, but if you're running active anyway I'd just piece together everything separately, from Seas or ScanSpeak or others.

I'm not a fan of pre-built 3-way component sets, they're very hard to adjust in a car environment.

[SIDEWALKSISSY]

Originally posted by Glowbug
Dynaudio certainly builds some good drivers, but if you're running active anyway I'd just piece together everything separately, from Seas or ScanSpeak or others.

I'm not a fan of pre-built 3-way component sets, they're very hard to adjust in a car environment.

well, never built my own system. i guess this is the perfect place to learn. any suggestions on a sql system? i listen to 90% metal. i like to crank all the way out. no horns please. thanx

[junglejuice]

Dynaudio without the dome midranges use the 5" mid and go for the 9" midbass and run them active......

[SIDEWALKSISSY]

Originally posted by junglejuice
Dynaudio without the dome midranges use the 5" mid and go for the 9" midbass and run them active......

i didn't know dynaudio made a 9". what tweet should i run with this set-up?

[junglejuice]

Either the Md 100 or the full sized one depending on how adventurous you want to get.
The 9" driver is the same as the one used in the 360 system in fact just swap out the mid on a 360 for the 5" and away you go....