Hello all,
I have a GTO 2000, 400w amp from JBL. I would like to use its 2 channels in bridge mode, but, would like to use my own crossover and skip bass boost. Does it have to be switched into LO (lowpass) mode to run in bridge?
Oh, and as a side order, can you tweak these things in any way. Quality not quantity, if you please.
Thankyou
Mike
I have a GTO 2000, 400w amp from JBL. I would like to use its 2 channels in bridge mode, but, would like to use my own crossover and skip bass boost. Does it have to be switched into LO (lowpass) mode to run in bridge?
Oh, and as a side order, can you tweak these things in any way. Quality not quantity, if you please.
Thankyou
Mike
Hello there, I Am An Idiot
Good moniker
Me sometimes idiot too, pardon my ignorance, can you tell me, how does the amp know whether to bridge or not? There is no switch. I have wired Left and Right Line Out to my sub, my single driver is wired +Left and +Right, L- and R- are not connected, okay, how does the amp know to sum left and right input and drive bridge. Is it the speaker wiring which tells it to either bridge or be Stereo/2 channel?
Gratefully appreciated
Mike
Good moniker
Me sometimes idiot too, pardon my ignorance, can you tell me, how does the amp know whether to bridge or not? There is no switch. I have wired Left and Right Line Out to my sub, my single driver is wired +Left and +Right, L- and R- are not connected, okay, how does the amp know to sum left and right input and drive bridge. Is it the speaker wiring which tells it to either bridge or be Stereo/2 channel?
Gratefully appreciated
Mike
If your amp has no bridge switch on it, the bridge wires will be a positive wire from one channel and a negative wire of the other channel. If you used both positive wires it is not bridged. connect the wires to left positive and right negative. If that does not work try left negative and right positive.
I am sure your amp is capable of running 2 ohms per channel. This means it will run no lower than 4 ohms bridged.
I am sure your amp is capable of running 2 ohms per channel. This means it will run no lower than 4 ohms bridged.
Confused
This is whats displayed on my amp, I'm using in my Lounge, its a 4 channel job. No brand.Cheapy
R+ -R 2CH L+ -L
+MONO- 3CH L+ - - +R
L+ - - +R 4CH L+ - -+R
I I
I I
- --LS-- +
I have switches
Mode
S1 S2
2ch ON ON
3ch OFF ON
4ch Off OFF
I have it ON ON and speaker wired (LS) on +MONO-
How does that look to you?
Cheers Mike
This is whats displayed on my amp, I'm using in my Lounge, its a 4 channel job. No brand.Cheapy
R+ -R 2CH L+ -L
+MONO- 3CH L+ - - +R
L+ - - +R 4CH L+ - -+R
I I
I I
- --LS-- +
I have switches
Mode
S1 S2
2ch ON ON
3ch OFF ON
4ch Off OFF
I have it ON ON and speaker wired (LS) on +MONO-
How does that look to you?
Cheers Mike
JBL GTO 2000 in
Just put fuse in an fired it up. It takes place of my Maystar QXT455 4 channel amp rated 150w @13.8v x2 into 4ohms(both my amps are 2 ohm stable) . The JBL manual doesn't quote a figure, none the less it shows a picture and is bridgeable. Also its says 2/1 channel amp on the case and manual. I wired both ways and found the percieved loudness to be more or less the same, yet my Maystar bridges louder?
As for this one in the lounge, I got it fed by a 40hz 24dB Linkwitz R crossover and Linkwitz Transform @20hz, which richie00boy helped me to build. The amp is powered by a PC power supply and its problem is, when the bass goes really low, even with volume down, the speaker sort of squeeks??? The Protection led does not alter in anyway, it doesn't dim, even the fan on the PSU doesn't slow. Got me baffled. Thats 4ohm on a 2 ohm stable amp also.
Any thoughts? Mike
Just put fuse in an fired it up. It takes place of my Maystar QXT455 4 channel amp rated 150w @13.8v x2 into 4ohms(both my amps are 2 ohm stable) . The JBL manual doesn't quote a figure, none the less it shows a picture and is bridgeable. Also its says 2/1 channel amp on the case and manual. I wired both ways and found the percieved loudness to be more or less the same, yet my Maystar bridges louder?
As for this one in the lounge, I got it fed by a 40hz 24dB Linkwitz R crossover and Linkwitz Transform @20hz, which richie00boy helped me to build. The amp is powered by a PC power supply and its problem is, when the bass goes really low, even with volume down, the speaker sort of squeeks??? The Protection led does not alter in anyway, it doesn't dim, even the fan on the PSU doesn't slow. Got me baffled. Thats 4ohm on a 2 ohm stable amp also.
Any thoughts? Mike
Hell rich
I'm just pee'd off with my squeeky woofer. The GTO was dead, its no resurrected. I was curious how it would sound in the car. Will find out soon. The Maystar, I'm going to wire up after work. I've posted a sound file over on subwoofer threads. It was recorded with an MP3 stick, 20quid job, but the squeek is clear. There seems to be plenty of volume and nuffing else. Hope you can here it. I still want to buy one of your amps, but I have to knowif the Transform is correct. If the Maystar doesn't improve matters, I will reverse enginner with the spreadsheets and check the circuits calculations. When I built Linkwitz's circuit using his values, that driver rumbled and the cone flapped in and out and the room filled with low stuff, you could tell it was reaching low. And thats with the wrong values. So maybe I've got something wrong. I've no idea whats up with email. We're moving house soon, in a few weeks, and I ain't going with Orange, will be looking for another ISP. Who do you choose?
Don't work too hard.
Regards, Mike
I'm just pee'd off with my squeeky woofer. The GTO was dead, its no resurrected. I was curious how it would sound in the car. Will find out soon. The Maystar, I'm going to wire up after work. I've posted a sound file over on subwoofer threads. It was recorded with an MP3 stick, 20quid job, but the squeek is clear. There seems to be plenty of volume and nuffing else. Hope you can here it. I still want to buy one of your amps, but I have to knowif the Transform is correct. If the Maystar doesn't improve matters, I will reverse enginner with the spreadsheets and check the circuits calculations. When I built Linkwitz's circuit using his values, that driver rumbled and the cone flapped in and out and the room filled with low stuff, you could tell it was reaching low. And thats with the wrong values. So maybe I've got something wrong. I've no idea whats up with email. We're moving house soon, in a few weeks, and I ain't going with Orange, will be looking for another ISP. Who do you choose?
Don't work too hard.
Regards, Mike
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