ppi 2350 dm not powering on - Page 3

twon007 · 11th August 2007, 12:48 PM

ok that was verry informative. thank you. actually, how many volts do you think i am to have for the led on? i have 6+. does this sound right? with it removed?

Perry Babin · 11th August 2007, 04:01 PM

With the LED in the circuit, you shouldn't have more than ~2v across the LED. If you have 6v, the LED is likely damaged. With the power LED out of the circuit, I'd expect ~15v.

If you don't have 15v with it out of the circuit, measure the voltage across the power supply pins of the op-amps. There should be ~15v from the power supply pins to ground and ~30v from one power supply pin to the other.

twon007 · 13th August 2007, 09:42 PM

["hello there my name is teddy ruxpin. will you be my friend?"]

had to get that off chest. lol.
the mpsu devises were used in front of the power supply in this amp. but nethertheless it is working great now. very louuuuud!

ppia600 · 19th August 2007, 03:26 AM

Don't ever sell that thing. I made the mistake of selling one a few years ago on ebay.. I think I only got like $275 for it.

I just saw one sell for about $350 but IMO that is WAY too low for an amp that puts out so much clean power. I miss mine, haha

twon007 · 19th August 2007, 10:48 AM

this is a very beautiful peice. well i love old ppi anyway. had the 2300 am and the oldschool jbl gti1000 subs and that was nice. to tell you the truth, i didnt get to put this one on anything that could handle it. did this do good for a sub amp?

ppia600 · 19th August 2007, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by twon007
this is a very beautiful peice. well i love old ppi anyway. had the 2300 am and the oldschool jbl gti1000 subs and that was nice. to tell you the truth, i didnt get to put this one on anything that could handle it. did this do good for a sub amp?

Does it ever??? The damping is amazing and the power is definately there. I would get another if I wasn't trying to keep them bolted under the seats, its a long amp.

twon007 · 20th August 2007, 02:35 AM

heavy too! hey do you happen to know why the low imped light comes on if i push the briudge button? there was a problem with the fan lead shorting out and blowing remote on transister,fiuxed thius and the red on-led. now this happens.???? thisu ius wiuth no speakers hooked up.

ppia600 · 20th August 2007, 02:48 AM

I don't remember a "bridge" button.???? Mine only had dual voltage range switch, hp/lp, crossover on/off, and the crossover frequency range and gain controls. One pair of inputs and one pair of outputs I believe. Mine never had the low impedance light come on.. Do some checking, you might still have a bad output transistor somewhere. I don't know if the amp will totally shut down or just run hotter if that happens. The only problem mine ever had was with the main tranformer touching between two wires. All I had to do was move them and epoxy away. Good as new.

11th August 2007, 04:01 PM	#22
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	With the LED in the circuit, you shouldn't have more than ~2v across the LED. If you have 6v, the LED is likely damaged. With the power LED out of the circuit, I'd expect ~15v. If you don't have 15v with it out of the circuit, measure the voltage across the power supply pins of the op-amps. There should be ~15v from the power supply pins to ground and ~30v from one power supply pin to the other. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

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11th August 2007, 12:48 PM	#21
twon007 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	ok that was verry informative. thank you. actually, how many volts do you think i am to have for the led on? i have 6+. does this sound right? with it removed?

13th August 2007, 09:42 PM	#23
twon007 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	["hello there my name is teddy ruxpin. will you be my friend?"] had to get that off chest. lol. the mpsu devises were used in front of the power supply in this amp. but nethertheless it is working great now. very louuuuud!

19th August 2007, 03:26 AM	#24
ppia600 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Louis y ana	Don't ever sell that thing. I made the mistake of selling one a few years ago on ebay.. I think I only got like $275 for it. I just saw one sell for about $350 but IMO that is WAY too low for an amp that puts out so much clean power. I miss mine, haha

19th August 2007, 10:48 AM	#25
twon007 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	this is a very beautiful peice. well i love old ppi anyway. had the 2300 am and the oldschool jbl gti1000 subs and that was nice. to tell you the truth, i didnt get to put this one on anything that could handle it. did this do good for a sub amp?

20th August 2007, 02:35 AM	#27
twon007 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	heavy too! hey do you happen to know why the low imped light comes on if i push the briudge button? there was a problem with the fan lead shorting out and blowing remote on transister,fiuxed thius and the red on-led. now this happens.???? thisu ius wiuth no speakers hooked up.

20th August 2007, 02:48 AM	#28
ppia600 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Louis y ana	I don't remember a "bridge" button.???? Mine only had dual voltage range switch, hp/lp, crossover on/off, and the crossover frequency range and gain controls. One pair of inputs and one pair of outputs I believe. Mine never had the low impedance light come on.. Do some checking, you might still have a bad output transistor somewhere. I don't know if the amp will totally shut down or just run hotter if that happens. The only problem mine ever had was with the main tranformer touching between two wires. All I had to do was move them and epoxy away. Good as new.