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Old 4th August 2007, 12:09 PM   #1
msm677 is offline msm677  Philippines
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Default dls ca40 sound comes out

can anybody help me about my dls ca40. im using it for my seps. the sound comes out for about a second and will come in again. I tried looking at the green little bulb (green for ok, changes in red if protected), it doesnt go off and doesnt changes in red when the sound goes off. I tried changing KIA494P (Voltage Mode PWM Controller), the amp is good for 1 day then after that, still the same.

please help me what parts to look at and to replace.
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Old 6th August 2007, 03:06 PM   #2
msm677 is offline msm677  Philippines
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can anybody, or anyone help me with my amp. please.
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Old 6th August 2007, 03:15 PM   #3
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Does the 494 fail catastrophically after one day?

After replacing it, does the amplifier perform flawlessly for one day?
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Old 7th August 2007, 02:15 AM   #4
msm677 is offline msm677  Philippines
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after replacing the 494, the amp works good the whole day, the 2nd day, still the same, the sound is on and off but you will hear the continous music for at least 15 to 20 minutes. But now, the sound will come on and off at 10 to 15 times for 1 track. I checked all the capacitors of power supply and preamp, they are all ok.
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Old 7th August 2007, 07:47 PM   #5
Staykov is offline Staykov  Bulgaria
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It sounds like soldering problem.
Check one more time all internal connections.
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Old 7th August 2007, 09:00 PM   #6
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I agree. It sounds like a bad connection. Intermittant solder connections will generally lose contact as oxide builds on the component leads and/or the solder. When you move the board (disassembling the amp and such), the oxide layer gets removed and the connection works for a while.

While the amp is on and connected normally, you may try pushing on various areas of the board with a non-conductive tool (screwdriver handle, wooden dowel...). If you find one area where it takes very little pressure to cause the audio to fade in and out, you should begin there. This method isn't foolproof but it can save a bit of time.

One other thought... It could be temerature related. If the temperature in your home/shop is considerably different than the temperature in the vehicle, the problem may show up after the amp reaches the temperature of the vehicle.
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Old 8th August 2007, 08:09 AM   #7
msm677 is offline msm677  Philippines
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ok, i will check all internal connections, i will keep you posted.
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Old 9th August 2007, 02:37 PM   #8
msm677 is offline msm677  Philippines
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i've checked all the internal connections, loose solder, everything, and find nothing unusual. and it's still the same, am I missing something? please help me what to check or what to replace on my amp. please.
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Old 10th August 2007, 09:25 AM   #9
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If you want to repair it, you will need to determine what part of the amp is shutting down.

If the input to the power supply driver IC is causing the IC to shut down, you would trace the circuits feeding the inputs to determine where the falut lies. The input could be on pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 15, or 16.

If the power to the driver IC is being lost, you determine why its being lost. The power control for the IC is pin 12 (should be near 12v when the amp has remote voltage). Pins 8 and 11 must also have ~12v for the IC to produce output pulses on pins 9 and 10.

If there are no changes to the power supply driver IC and it continues to produce output when the audio shuts down, you would look at the muting circuit.
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Old 10th August 2007, 02:06 PM   #10
msm677 is offline msm677  Philippines
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I'ts a good help. I will try what you told me. thanks. by the way, is there any way to identify the muting circuit of the board? or any IC, transistors, or anything connected to the muting circuit so I will know what to check?
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