I was about to just go ahead and cut up this MDF into a Wicked One, but have heard mixed things about it. Can anyone speak from experience? Or does anyone have a better idea? I have two 10" JL W6's I want to put in a new box. Would the Wicked One be a good choice? I want a large range.
I had the plans for the Wicked One 32 (WO32), but I have no idea where they went. If someone has them would they mind getting me a copy in PDF or something? Thanks.
I had the plans for the Wicked One 32 (WO32), but I have no idea where they went. If someone has them would they mind getting me a copy in PDF or something? Thanks.
i have built a wicked one for two 12" subs...and adjusted the box to accomodate the 'q' of the subs i was using...even went further to modify the box to get the most out of it....and I can honestly say that it is a waste of time and nothing but marketing hype.
a regular slot ported box gets louder, with better punchiness and detail....i ended up cutting the wicked one in half, gutted it out and made two regular slot ported boxes out of it.
if you use the same cubic feet for a ported box,that the 'entire' wicked one uses...a regular ported box will walk all over it.
and other than that, the wicked one is a sub killer....but it does improve about 20% if you load it off of a wall about 1 foot away...the box i made was for a truck with a cut through...
why some people consider the sound of the wicked one to be good is because the bass that comes out of the throat doesnt suffer as much from phase anomalies...but at the cost of spl....this problem can be solved simply by box and port placement.
looks cool though.
the plans for the wicked one are free off of the site, if you dont believe me and want to see for yourself.
a regular slot ported box gets louder, with better punchiness and detail....i ended up cutting the wicked one in half, gutted it out and made two regular slot ported boxes out of it.
if you use the same cubic feet for a ported box,that the 'entire' wicked one uses...a regular ported box will walk all over it.
and other than that, the wicked one is a sub killer....but it does improve about 20% if you load it off of a wall about 1 foot away...the box i made was for a truck with a cut through...
why some people consider the sound of the wicked one to be good is because the bass that comes out of the throat doesnt suffer as much from phase anomalies...but at the cost of spl....this problem can be solved simply by box and port placement.
looks cool though.
the plans for the wicked one are free off of the site, if you dont believe me and want to see for yourself.
are you willing to cut the back deck and let the bass through?
if you dont want to cut it you can make a bandpass box and fire it through the rear speaker holes.
I did a benz 220C a while back that is similiar in size to your car, those subs you have do well in a free air/infinite baffle setup, the subs i used were the W1 series...the trick is to set the crossover point higher than usual around 150-200hz...alot of people may say , 'what infinite baffle'? and those are the ones that havent set it up properly. you have to make sure the front and rear are totally seperated from each other....it will give you a broad range, but wont hit as hard around the 30-45hz range...the bass at these frequencies will play exxtremely well, but not hard.
for a ported box try a 1.25 cuft box per sub, with approx 14-16 sqin of port per cuft...
you will have to cut the back deck to let the bass through for best sound.
heres plans for a box to get you use to things, its for 1-12" but if you cut holes for two 10" subs...it will also work
the plans are for both 15mm and 19mm mdf, try to go with 19mm if you can
if you dont want to cut it you can make a bandpass box and fire it through the rear speaker holes.
I did a benz 220C a while back that is similiar in size to your car, those subs you have do well in a free air/infinite baffle setup, the subs i used were the W1 series...the trick is to set the crossover point higher than usual around 150-200hz...alot of people may say , 'what infinite baffle'? and those are the ones that havent set it up properly. you have to make sure the front and rear are totally seperated from each other....it will give you a broad range, but wont hit as hard around the 30-45hz range...the bass at these frequencies will play exxtremely well, but not hard.
for a ported box try a 1.25 cuft box per sub, with approx 14-16 sqin of port per cuft...
you will have to cut the back deck to let the bass through for best sound.
heres plans for a box to get you use to things, its for 1-12" but if you cut holes for two 10" subs...it will also work
the plans are for both 15mm and 19mm mdf, try to go with 19mm if you can
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to get through the back seat your going to want to keep the tuning a bit lower to use the cars transfer function to its advantage...if you cut the back deck you can go higher with the tuning.
your cars a nisan right? nissans have pretty bad grounds and a main B+ wire from alt.
run another wire from the + of the alt to the battery keeping the original one in place if you can.
add additional ground wires from:
batt to chassis
engine to transmission
engine to chassis
transmission to chassis
alt body to chassis or engine/transmission
i have a nissan and believe me it helps....im sure i over did it, and could have left one of these connections out...but i was on a roll
your cars a nisan right? nissans have pretty bad grounds and a main B+ wire from alt.
run another wire from the + of the alt to the battery keeping the original one in place if you can.
add additional ground wires from:
batt to chassis
engine to transmission
engine to chassis
transmission to chassis
alt body to chassis or engine/transmission
i have a nissan and believe me it helps....im sure i over did it, and could have left one of these connections out...but i was on a roll
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