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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
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I know this is a longshot, but can anyone help me source the schematics for this amp. IT's probably not a great amp to most people, but I really would like to fix this one .
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
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Here are pics of my amp
(12) IRFZ44N (8) IRF2807 After reading other posts regarding fets and realizing I need to shotgun both the power supply and output section. I wanted to know if you guys have any suggestions on better quality replacement parts. The controller is a KIA494AP. I honestly was hoping to sub a higher current mosfet in both sides. oh, how about the drivers, should i order them now and get it over with ? or wait until i test the PS side. Sorry I don't have any numbers yet, I'll do that this weekend, I was praying i could find the schematics, but that doesn't seem likely at this point. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Did you find any shorted output transistors?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
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I wasnt going to look for any shorted ones, just replace them all.
But before I ordered them I was hoping to see if there were any recommendations on better parts. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It's not a good idea to replace components that aren't known to be defective. This is especially true for class D amplifiers. I've seen more than one that would not work properly when the original part number was used as a replacement. The manufacturers of semiconductors change the way they make the components and that can change some of the parameters. The HIP4080 based amps are especially sensitive to changes.
The power supply FETs look like they've failed so they need to be replaced. The driver transistors may have failed. You can check the drive signal with a voltmeter. With the power supply FETs pulled, the DC voltage on pin 1 should be ~1/2 of the B+ voltage (red meter lead on pin 1, black meter lead on pin 3 or on the ground terminal of the amp). Check the drive voltage for all of the power supply FETs. Check all of the gate resistors to make sure all are within tolerance.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
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Thanks Perry, Will do.
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