If your engine noise is very loud, chances are the problem is the shield of your RCA cables have lost their ground refference.
To make sure this is your problem we need to remove our radio from the dash so we can get to the RCA cable that goes to the amp. Then we need to take a length of small wire a couple feet long, we need to ground one end of the wire and with the engine running and noise present, touch the other end of the wire to the outer part of your RCA cable. The shiny part you can still see when the cable is plugged into the deck. This should make a little pop and the noise should go away.
If this gets rid of the noise let me know and we can help you get it repaired.
To make sure this is your problem we need to remove our radio from the dash so we can get to the RCA cable that goes to the amp. Then we need to take a length of small wire a couple feet long, we need to ground one end of the wire and with the engine running and noise present, touch the other end of the wire to the outer part of your RCA cable. The shiny part you can still see when the cable is plugged into the deck. This should make a little pop and the noise should go away.
If this gets rid of the noise let me know and we can help you get it repaired.
Problem is likely with the ground of the amp. Is the whine there even with the volume of the head unit at zero? If so, definitely amp ground.
If you read continuity at the far end of the RCA shield to car chassis (both RCA's) your shield is intact enough to keep whine down, and is therefore not in the layout or open conductors.
If you have the ability, run a thick wire from the common (black) terminal of the amp back to the frame of your alternator. Temporary installation, of course. If the whine disappears or is less, the problem is your ground connection of the amp.
Most common problem with engine whine.
Reason is that today's vehicles are mostly unibody chasses, which have much less steel frame than the old days. You typically have to experiment and find a suitable ground. I prefer a nut and bolt as opposed to a sheet metal screw or threaded connection. They weaken over time. You may think you have a good ground because you have cleaned down to shiny sheet metal, but the entire resistance back to alternator frame (true ground of the car) is actually fairly high.
Last option is a poor ground of your head unit. If you're using a factory provided ground, these are rarely deficient. If you provided the ground, suspect it.
If you read continuity at the far end of the RCA shield to car chassis (both RCA's) your shield is intact enough to keep whine down, and is therefore not in the layout or open conductors.
If you have the ability, run a thick wire from the common (black) terminal of the amp back to the frame of your alternator. Temporary installation, of course. If the whine disappears or is less, the problem is your ground connection of the amp.
Most common problem with engine whine.
Reason is that today's vehicles are mostly unibody chasses, which have much less steel frame than the old days. You typically have to experiment and find a suitable ground. I prefer a nut and bolt as opposed to a sheet metal screw or threaded connection. They weaken over time. You may think you have a good ground because you have cleaned down to shiny sheet metal, but the entire resistance back to alternator frame (true ground of the car) is actually fairly high.
Last option is a poor ground of your head unit. If you're using a factory provided ground, these are rarely deficient. If you provided the ground, suspect it.
Well, I don't have any direct exerience with the amp or manufacturer, but I always question the claims of 4000W from a car amp. Regardless, 8 gauge does seem a little small to me, especially if the length is anything over 2 feet.
At this point, I have no doubt it is your ground. I would still play around with location of the ground, instead of running out and buying some 4 ga. monster cable. Why? Because with the amp at idle, the 8 gauge should be sufficient to keep engine noise down below audibility. If it's still there, the problem is with the location, not the size.
Selah
At this point, I have no doubt it is your ground. I would still play around with location of the ground, instead of running out and buying some 4 ga. monster cable. Why? Because with the amp at idle, the 8 gauge should be sufficient to keep engine noise down below audibility. If it's still there, the problem is with the location, not the size.
Selah
I would try to take out the frontunit and (power)ground it to the amp (power)ground directly.
The reason one amp gives noise and another doesn't have little to do with the maximum power ability. A more reasonable explanation is that the silent amp is using a transformer at the input. This will isolate the ground and remove any ground-induced noise. Usually only higher priced amps use input transformers. (Ground breaking) signal transformers can be bought separately and are installed between the front unit and amp.
space
The reason one amp gives noise and another doesn't have little to do with the maximum power ability. A more reasonable explanation is that the silent amp is using a transformer at the input. This will isolate the ground and remove any ground-induced noise. Usually only higher priced amps use input transformers. (Ground breaking) signal transformers can be bought separately and are installed between the front unit and amp.
space
I would tie the second battery's negative terminal to a heavy duty chassis bolt with as short a length as possible. 8 gauge minimum, though 6 or 4 is better.
Tie all trunk mounted amplifiers' negative terminals to the very same chassis point with their own short length wire. Again, 6 or 4 gauge is best.
Head unit should be verified. Short length ground wire, tied either to factory ground wire or suitable chassis point. Note: in cars younger than 10 years old, it can be very challenging to find a true chassis ground near the dash. You may find some steel, but that does not guarantee it is bonded to the car's frame (I speak from experience on this one). 12 guage is more than adequate.
When these simple procedures are followed, I have never had any whine problems with multiple systems I have installed (like maybe 10-12). If you do, you are probably dealing with some type of equipment failure.
Tie all trunk mounted amplifiers' negative terminals to the very same chassis point with their own short length wire. Again, 6 or 4 gauge is best.
Head unit should be verified. Short length ground wire, tied either to factory ground wire or suitable chassis point. Note: in cars younger than 10 years old, it can be very challenging to find a true chassis ground near the dash. You may find some steel, but that does not guarantee it is bonded to the car's frame (I speak from experience on this one). 12 guage is more than adequate.
When these simple procedures are followed, I have never had any whine problems with multiple systems I have installed (like maybe 10-12). If you do, you are probably dealing with some type of equipment failure.
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