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Old

Burning Amp BA-3b (Balanced)

Posted 9th April 2013 at 06:10 PM by alexcp (My DIY projects)
Updated 2nd November 2013 at 11:17 AM by alexcp (Added better photos)

Big, hot, and heavy! Just completed it and adjusted for distortion, have not had yet a real chance to listen to it. (Update: I have listened to this amp for some time, and it seems to be a keeper, at least for now.)

The build is in a 4U/400 case from modushop; each side has two 200mm heatsinks, each holding six MOSFETs (three complementary pairs) and a biasing circuit.

The construction is dual mono (separate transformers for each channel) with CRC filtered +/- 18V rails, quiescent current is 3A per channel. Eight Mundorf MLytic® HC High Current Power Caps and two 300VA toroids occupy the most of the chassis, while the actual electronics is mounted on the sides.

Now I need a balanced preamp. I contemplate building some variant of BoSoZ, but am also thinking about a SuperSymmetric balanced preamp using JFETs or tubes...

UPDATE: No- and low-feedback amplifiers have no (or little) control over output errors and thus poor PSRR. On this premise,...
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Old

My aha! moment - loadline optimization

Posted 9th April 2013 at 11:07 AM by alexcp (My DIY projects)
Updated 9th April 2013 at 11:32 AM by alexcp

I build myself a Millett's Hybrid Headphone amp, originally published in AudioXpress issue 11, 2001.

The amp uses low-voltage 12AE6A tubes for voltage amplification and BUF634 solid state buffers to drive the load. Each tube houses two diodes (unused) and a triode, here loaded with a CCS. The whole thing runs off a 24VDC power brick and consumes maybe 150mA after the tubes heat up.

The DC operating point of the triode can be adjusted with a multiturn trimpot. The original AudioXpress article talks about the influence of the operating point on the sound and suggests to trim for symmetrical clipping, then adjust for the subjectively best sound.

The aha! moment came when I connected the amp to my sound card and looked at the distortion spectrum. On small signals (~300mV output into 300 ohm) the distortion is 2nd harmonic only. The operation point can be trimmed to the point where the the 2nd harmonic goes into the noise floor! I've read about this but...
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Old

Adding TentLabs XO2.2 low jitter clock to exposure 2010S CD player

Posted 9th April 2013 at 10:03 AM by alexcp (My DIY projects)
Updated 12th May 2013 at 03:58 PM by alexcp (Added photos, links)

I added a TentLabs XO2.2 low jitter clock and a separate power supply for it to my exposure 2010S CD player. The process was very straightforward - see the pictures.

The exposure 2010S CD player has an easy internal layout, where most of the components sit on a large PCB.

The original clock is based on the 74HC04N chip located in the middle of the PCB, to the left from the three white power connectors connecting the toroidal transformer. A close-up picture shows the crystal resonator wrapped in a black heat-shrink tube, two 33pF capacitors on each side of the resonator (those with black dots on top), and a resistor R75, which also serves in the circuit. The oscillator is built on the single invertor (pins 13 and 12 of the IC).

The original clock is generating 16.9344 MHz at 5V CMOS levels.

To install XO2.2, I removed the resonator and the capacitors, leaving the resistor in place. I connected the signal cable from XO2.2 to the...
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Old

What? - A Low Power Desktop Amp

Posted 6th April 2013 at 08:52 PM by BuildMeSomething
Updated 9th April 2013 at 07:31 PM by BuildMeSomething (Updates)

2] Basically, this is me trying to do a 2-layer PCB layout based on the LPUHP circuit schematic.

I'm using FeePCB for laying out. Not hit any problems with the software yet and it produces Gerber RS247X files. The parts library is none specific, so I'm having to generate footprints from datasheets as I go.

Notes:
1) Untested PCB design [should work though].
2) 2-Layer PCB.
3) 2 channels per board [16 x LME49600].
4) LME49722 with 4x gain.
5) Up to +/-18VDC rails.
6) Separate regulated power supply.
7) Utilise a 10K Alps RK27 for volume control.
8) 8 Watt into 8 Ohm [based on 2VRMS input].

Aim is to create 1 x power supply & 1 x amp board of a small enough form factor to fit in a desktop friendly case. With an output of 8 Watt into 8 Ohm load, for up close & nearfield listening in a small room.

Why the LME49722. Its drop in replacement to the nice 49720 but will run on +/-18VDC,...
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Old

Why? - A Low Power Desktop Amp [LPDA]

Posted 6th April 2013 at 08:34 PM by BuildMeSomething
Updated 26th April 2013 at 10:26 AM by BuildMeSomething

1] I hold opc's "The Wire" series of headphone and power amps in high regard. Small form factor, simple no nonsense designs and killer performance. God bless that man

I'm fortunate enough to have a few pieces at home. Primary, is the SE-SE headphone amp that gets used for both music and late night movies... Also, under construction is the A/B Power Amp, utilising two 55V/45V DPS-600 smps. This should provide over 100 Watt per channel into 8 Ohm load. Nice, but way to powerful for my spare little room.

opc designed a Low Power Ultra High Performance [LPUHP] Amp giving 16 Watt into 8 Ohm @ 1% THD. This was based upon the headphone amps he'd designed, using the same LME49990 opamp, but paralleled 8 LME49600 buffers.

Unfortunately I didn't have the funds to get both the A/B Power Amp and LPUHP Amp. Plumping for the former...



My little spare room is just that... Its 3m[w] x 2.9m[L] x 2.4m[H] and is full of...
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Old

My Ikea Blanda Bowl Build Diary

Posted 6th April 2013 at 07:56 PM by mondogenerator

So upon seeing many nice Blanda bowl projects here on DIYAudio I thought it about time I had a try and see what all the fuss is about!

About a year or so past I went through a phase of buying the nicest small wide-band drivers I could. Whether I achieved this is subject to the readers' opinion

So I have a pair of Mark Audio Alpair 5, and a pair of Tangband W3-1285SG. Both of these drivers were available to me in the UK at a very similar price-point and they both fall roughly into the 3" wide-band category. (Shown in the following picture alongside some Tangband 2" drivers)

Click the image to open in full size.

I chose to buy the 20cm Blanda bowls in bamboo. Gross volume works out at ~2 litres. Factor in stuffing or denser absorbent and I guesstimate a 1 litre volume.

This is really too small for the Alpairs, but the 2 dB rise towards the cut-off wasn't...
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Old

Tube-I-zator V3.0 - Out of production

Posted 5th April 2013 at 03:28 PM by dvb projekt
Updated 16th September 2013 at 05:16 PM by dvb projekt

Tube-I-zator V3.0

Click the image to open in full size.

The evolution brings the following changes:

- Anode PSU with Salas SSHV Shunt Reg. onboard
- External B+ Input for usage with other Anode PSU
- Heater PSU with C-R-C filtering
- Heater PSU with Softstart circuit
- Heater PSU Power LED

Thanks to John (-ecdesigns-) for the following suggestions!

- Grid stoppers to prevent unwanted oscillations
- Bias current injection for TDA1541A usage
- Pull-down resistors to keep the coupling cap output at GND-potential

Still on the Module:

- Heater switch for 6N2P or 12AX7 usage



An example for a balanced use (e.g. Bufalo II), you could see HERE.



The PCB has the following data:

Material: FR4 - 2mm
Layers: 2
Board size: 193x157 mm
Surface
...
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Old

A poll. Basic electronics and DIY audio.

Posted 2nd April 2013 at 01:46 AM by rjm
Updated 4th May 2013 at 10:54 PM by rjm

It came up at the help desk, but I want to put this before diyaudio.com members generally:

I feel strongly that people who build audio equipment as a hobby should take it upon themselves to obtain a basic understanding of both the practical and theoretical aspects of electronics. Take a trip to the library and read through the first couple of chapters of electronics textbooks, that kind of thing.

It's more than just the safety aspect, I think of it as a basic necessity...

So, how many people here are familiar with the following statement?

The impedance of a capacitor is -j/([omega]C)

Familiar as dirt? Never heard of it before?
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Old

Preamps are not line level.

Posted 1st April 2013 at 04:57 AM by rjm

If you don't think about it too hard, you'd imagine that the signals in the phono stage would be smaller than the signals in the line level preamplifier stage that follows it. Or that the signals in the DAC/CD player would be about the same level or slightly lower than the signal in the preamplifier.

As usual, the answer is "it depends". It depends on the sensitivity of your speakers, how loud you are listening, and the voltage gain of the amplifier. It also depends on whether we are talking about a MM phono stage or low output MC.

My point is simply this: the volume control is an attenuator, and at the typical "9 o'clock" position the input signal is reduced in magnitude by about 35 dB.

That cuts it back down to being comparable to the output of a moving magnet cart, and much, much smaller than anything found in a DAC stage.

It means you absolutely, definitely, positively must spend as much effort and care...
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Old

FM tuner for Jitter analysis

Posted 29th March 2013 at 03:34 PM by 1audio

A few quick notes on using a tuner for digital audio clock jitter analysis (before I forget the details). Someone here (I have forgotten who) suggested an FM tuner for monitoring jitter. After a little research and experimentation I went pretty deep into figuring this out.

First the internal clocks on ADC's and DAC's have strong harmonics into the FM band. Second, FM tuners are very sensitive to modulation to carriers. modulation and jitter are closely related. The other advantage of this is that the jitter/phase noise is multiplied by the ratio of the actual carrier and the harmonic you are looking at. E.g. a 22.5792 MHz clock becomes 90.3168 MHz with the noise amplified by a factor of 4.

This is very simplified but covers the essentials-You need a really low noise FM tuner. Sound good is not an issue. The Yamaha TX-930 and TX-950 are possibly the lowest noise tuners ever made. They can be had for around $100 on eBay. What I did was to take the output directly...
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