Riken resistor in AudioSector LM3875
Is there another brand of resistor than can replace the Riken? I have an AudiSector LM3875 Board and want to use premium parts. I orderred parts at partconnexion, but I forgot to order the Rikens...., And if I want to order them, I don't have the minimum order.
But at the job we frequently order stuff from Digikey. What can I order from there that would be as good or almost?
Is there another brand of resistor than can replace the Riken? I have an AudiSector LM3875 Board and want to use premium parts. I orderred parts at partconnexion, but I forgot to order the Rikens...., And if I want to order them, I don't have the minimum order.
But at the job we frequently order stuff from Digikey. What can I order from there that would be as good or almost?
I'm using ATI top and bottom panels (custom made with clear anodizing). I didn't like their fronts and back so I decided to make my own. I'm using here polypropylene panels (1/2" thick, used for floors in boats). It is very rigid and easy to machine. With a template I can cut one in less than a minute using wood router 
There are only 4 screws needed to hold the whole chassis.
The bottom banel is reinforced with aluminum plate (4 x 5.75). That panel ads stiffness for transformer mounting, as well provides stops for both front and back so the alignement is simplified.
The two BG STD caps, needed in Patek supply, are press fitted into rear panel.
There are only 4 screws needed to hold the whole chassis.
The bottom banel is reinforced with aluminum plate (4 x 5.75). That panel ads stiffness for transformer mounting, as well provides stops for both front and back so the alignement is simplified.
The two BG STD caps, needed in Patek supply, are press fitted into rear panel.
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wow that is nice is the Pateks case going to change also?
modern
http://www.atiresearch-anodized.com/
is the Pateks case going to change also?modern
http://www.atiresearch-anodized.com/
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I have a several questions about DAC.
I have a green board.
Q1. The schematic shows that C5a and C5b are 15uF each.
I have only one place on the board marked C5 and Peter sent me two 10uF capacitors. what do I do?
Q2. Peter mentioned that he's sending me 33uF cap for C11 (instead of 47uF, which is ok). The schematic shows C11 being polar and Vishay (MKT1817) cap he sent me is not polar. What do I do?
Q3. From the pictures in this thread I see that there's something that looks like plastic right where the wires from transformer connects to the board. What is it? Where can I get it?
Thank you.
p.s. My DAC is 80% soldered. Now I need to connect transformer and buy an optical cable. Can't wait to listen to it ;-)
I have a green board.
Q1. The schematic shows that C5a and C5b are 15uF each.
I have only one place on the board marked C5 and Peter sent me two 10uF capacitors. what do I do?
Q2. Peter mentioned that he's sending me 33uF cap for C11 (instead of 47uF, which is ok). The schematic shows C11 being polar and Vishay (MKT1817) cap he sent me is not polar. What do I do?
Q3. From the pictures in this thread I see that there's something that looks like plastic right where the wires from transformer connects to the board. What is it? Where can I get it?
Thank you.
p.s. My DAC is 80% soldered. Now I need to connect transformer and buy an optical cable. Can't wait to listen to it ;-)
Here the answers:
1) There are two of those caps on all-in-one board. Because of different layout, green board is using only one; 10uF is fine here as well.
2) Non polar cap can be used in place of polar cap without any problem. BTW, the 0.47u BG NX cap specified in a schematic (C11) is also non-polar.
3) Some guys like to use terminal blocks. I find them useless (for permanent installation) and don't recommend, soldering wires directly is better.
Terminal blocks are only good if board is to be frequently disconnected from the PS.
1) There are two of those caps on all-in-one board. Because of different layout, green board is using only one; 10uF is fine here as well.
2) Non polar cap can be used in place of polar cap without any problem. BTW, the 0.47u BG NX cap specified in a schematic (C11) is also non-polar.
3) Some guys like to use terminal blocks. I find them useless (for permanent installation) and don't recommend, soldering wires directly is better.
Terminal blocks are only good if board is to be frequently disconnected from the PS.
It's hard to advise without seeing the actual transformer. It may be a unit with dual primaries, in that case you connect them in parallel. The best is to find transformer manufacturer wiring diagram and see what they recommend. It is AC/AC.
Regarding the polarity in pdf file for C11: although BG NX caps are not polar, they still peforme better with a specific orientation in a circuit, I prefer short pin on +.
Regarding the polarity in pdf file for C11: although BG NX caps are not polar, they still peforme better with a specific orientation in a circuit, I prefer short pin on +.
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