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Old 15th March 2006, 05:57 PM   #971
karma is offline karma  Canada
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this is what all audio looks like when you die


hmmm Patek
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Old 15th March 2006, 07:00 PM   #972
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sorry if this isn't the place for workshop advice but I thought I'd add my experience.

After a few DIYers had said aluminium cutting was not difficult, I bought myself an aluminium blade cheap(ish) on eBay, which may have been the mistake, and with a bit of trepidation I set out to cut up my 10mm aluminum sheet.

From the start it didn't feel good. One of the teeth kept not clearing itself so I had to keep stopping to pull the swarf out with pliers. After a while that tooth broke off and a different one became the 'collector'.

Needles to say the cut edges will need a lot of sanding.

My aluminum is 6082 T6 which from memory is the high strength grade, so the problem could be a mixture of that or a low quality blade, or something else.
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Old 15th March 2006, 07:05 PM   #973
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It was probably the blade to blame.

I can cut 1" copper bars without any problem.
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Old 15th March 2006, 07:10 PM   #974
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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Peter, when it comes to metal, YOU DA MAN, arround here
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Old 15th March 2006, 07:12 PM   #975
DaveM is offline DaveM  United States
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That was definately the blade. There is no reason a carbide blade should load up, unless it is dull or mis-aligned. With missing teeth cutting metal with a table saw becomes increasingly dangerous. The odds of the material grabbing and kicking back increase dramatically. Don't ask me how I know

DaveM
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Old 15th March 2006, 07:41 PM   #976
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It wasn't a pleasant experience, I'd have stopped if I wasn't wearing full protection ( leather motorcycle jacket and full face helmet.)
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Old 15th March 2006, 07:57 PM   #977
DaveM is offline DaveM  United States
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I wish I could see a picture of that happening. That must have been quite a sight.

DaveM
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Old 15th March 2006, 08:03 PM   #978
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Default aluminium finisher

I've tried to locate the Alodine that you mentioned in a very early thread, to add a finish to my PDA30 amp. In the UK it's "out of stock" bl**dy expensive and the product spec says it gives a golden yellow finish.
I've found Aluma-Dyne E-2300 which it says gives a clear finish. Do you think this is "close enough for Jazz". Interestingly both products are used in the aero industry. http://www.aircraftcoverings.co.uk/main.htm /product catalogue/ conversion coatings; about halfway down the page

Thanks
Kev
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Old 15th March 2006, 08:26 PM   #979
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It's probably a very similar product. Alodine, when used lightly, will also give clear finish; if it's too yellow, you can brush it off with Scotch Brite pads. Each single aluminum aircraft part is treated with alodine (for corrosion protection) before primer is applied.
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Old 15th March 2006, 08:50 PM   #980
lohk is offline lohk  Europe
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Peter,

looking at the production images of your amps rose up a few questions (I did not find an answer in this long thread):

1. How do you mount the chip on the other side of the PCB? Is there not any interference from the solder of the resistors, and how is the pressure maintained to clamp the chip the the heatsink metal?

2. You seem to use only caddocks. No Rikens anymore? And where is the feedback resistor, because there seems to be no more space on the other side?


Klaus

ps: After using the DAC now for a longer period with pleasure, I want to make my Ref Amp also a bit like yours: Can you supply the necessary 2 x 100µF NX (NX) and 2x1000µF Blackgates?
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