• Disclaimer: This Vendor's Forum is a paid-for commercial area. Unlike the rest of diyAudio, the Vendor has complete control of what may or may not be posted in this forum. If you wish to discuss technical matters outside the bounds of what is permitted by the Vendor, please use the non-commercial areas of diyAudio to do so.

AudioSector-chip amp kits, dacs, chassis

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Jump to Latest
Z

-=Zepplock=-

Member
Joined 2005
vova.org
It's the one supplied by you Peter. Hammond one.

thank you.

Peter Daniel said:
It's hard to advise without seeing the actual transformer. It may be a unit with dual primaries, in that case you connect them in parallel. The best is to find transformer manufacturer wiring diagram and see what they recommend. It is AC/AC.

Regarding the polarity in pdf file for C11: although BG NX caps are not polar, they still peforme better with a specific orientation in a circuit, I prefer short pin on +.
Click to expand...
 
Peter Daniel

Peter Daniel

Member
Joined 2002
audiosector.com
Paid Member
-=Zepplock=- said:
I also should use parallel for seondaries, right?
Click to expand...

Secondaries are not in parallel, both are used separately. On Green board you have two pairs of connections marked as J1 and J2, this is where secondaries go (4 wires).

G1 and G2 are optional ground connect points; in case you use copper shield on the chips, this is where you can ground it.
 
Peter Daniel

Peter Daniel

Member
Joined 2002
audiosector.com
Paid Member
rabbitz said:
Most of the DAC's I've seen including Peter's that I'm currently burning in, use EI or similar transformers instead of toroidals. Any reason for this? Inrush current at start up? Nor have I seen LED's on the cases.
Click to expand...

The EI transformers should be theoretically better than toroids with regards to capacitance and windings isolation. The main reason I'm using one though is that it fits the board better ( I neededd PCB mount type that fits inside 3 x 2" tubing). Inrush current is not an issue here.

I don't need the LEDs as the DAC is permanently on, and I can hear when it locks ;)
 
Peter Daniel

Peter Daniel

Member
Joined 2002
audiosector.com
Paid Member
I'm using Freud, Non Ferrous Metal Blade ( 10", 80 teeth). It is good for aluminum and copper, works well with wood and plexiglass as well. Although I have special blades for those materials, when the job isn't big I don't bother to change from metal blade, which is usually mounted on my saw.

You can find that blade at Busy Bee or Home Depot.
 
Z

-=Zepplock=-

Member
Joined 2005
vova.org
Woohoo. I did it.

Soldered everything. Plugged it in - nothing. Checked the voltage. Everything OK on the board. Then I realized that I don't have 5V on the optical input for Vcc. Turned out I soldered Vcc to the wrong leg - resoldered and I HAVE SOUND!

Thank you Peter for greak kit and your patience.

I couldn't play music loud (fisnished at 2am yesterday) but the sound has no hum/noice. Also the high's are more clear - comparing to my Pioneer CD player DAC.

Now I need enclosere. Urgh.
 
edjosh23

edjosh23

Member
Joined 2004
cardomain.com/ride/621686/1
Peter,

I wanted to thank you for the old thread, here , about how to cut metal.
I purchased a Freud non-ferrous blade a couple weeks ago for about $45. I finally got to use it this weekend, my first time cutting metal, and WOW! It worked out really well. I have very few tools, but the cuts I made with it were amazing, or atleast for an amatuer like myself. I have only been using my table saw for some, I don't know, 1 year now. Just about all of my cuts were perfect, for my standards, if only I were as good with my drill press (I made a few mistakes on my drill press). Below is a picture of a 4" corner post (sorry my camera is bad at taking close up pictures). It is hard to read, but my caliper says exactly 4.00".

By the way, before I head off to school next year, I would like to purchase a DAC.

Thanks,

Josh

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
K

KT

Member
Joined 2003
Peter Daniel said:
Those are STD version. BG N 100/50 are directly at the chips.
Click to expand...

Peter,

I've been very interested the way you modified the Patek's power supply.

I purchased 5 LM3875 kits from you when you were selling them with Brian. So far I've populated one set of boards with the premium components (1000uF Blackagate Std at the chips), but I haven't had the time or tools to build the chassis to my liking. I look forward to the day it's up an running, though.

For the next set of boards I populate, I'd like to try the arrangement that you built into the Patek. I understand that the BG N 100/50 caps go where the 1000uF caps normally sit. But then do the 1000uF caps then take the place of the 4.7uF caps on the rectifier board? Or is there a different way that the 1000uF caps are connected?

I can't tell you how impressed I am with how your Patek SE looks. If the Patek SE had been around when I bought my Gaincard, it would be sitting on my shelf making music instead of the GC. It's very nice, indeed.

Best,
KT
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Top Bottom