AudioSector-chip amp kits, dacs, chassis

[Peter Daniel]

The buffer boards are already available, I just don't have all the other components ready yet (most of them are special order from D-K)

 

[karma]

speaking of finished projects. peter i finished the psu what do you
think

looks like my last one but i added a clear face on it. and theres no on off swich.

and the transformer is handwound for 24v a rail.

 

[karma]

rear shot



cheers

 

[Hanzwillem]

It would be great if you could someday replace that front with a brushed 10mm thick alu plate to match the amp

 

[karma]

i have it. but my bandsaw needs a new blade

 

[Magsy]

Peter, do you have dimensions for the buffer boards? Also the Blackgates at the rear, how big are they?

Thanks

 

[Peter Daniel]

The single channel board is 2.2 x 3.55"

The BG caps up to STD 1000/50 will fit on the board (they are 22mm in dia), although the footprint will go outside the board. Panasonic FC 1500/50 will fit inside board outline.

 

[Peter Daniel]

peter i finished the psu what do you
think

Looks good. I'm also working on a new PS enclosure for Patek amp, will post some pics soon.

 

[KT]

I'm getting ready with finalizing the buffer stage. The board is ready for testing. Adding the quality attenuator at the input may create quite a good preamp (at least that's what I'm hoping for).

Hi Peter,

Do you find that the OPA604 performs well in this position, or do you recommend something else that's even better?

Would an OPA627 be better here?

Thanks,
KT

 

[Peter Daniel]

In that board, OPA627 was only used for offset servo. I didn't compare it with OPA604 yet, I can't really say if it's going to be any difference.

 

[safetyman]

HI Peter, for the Zobel cap in the LM4780, a 0.1 (100nf) Polypropylene cap is specified. I am having problems trying to obtain one with the right footprint. Can you kindly furnish me with the brand and part number of the ones you are using for your kit. Thanks.

BTW, I have some that are polyester with a slightly larger footprint. Can these be used? What I mean to say is whether these will impact the sound?

Thanks

 

[Peter Daniel]

Digi Key part # for those caps is BC2054.

Whatever you use here will affect the sound, that's why I'm not using Zobel at all. If you still want to use it, a bigger cap is fine, just adjust the pins so they fit properly.

 

[safetyman]

Peter, please help !!!! Like the noob that I am, I have soldered the rectifiers the wrong way and now I am having a tough time trying to desolder them. Can you suggest an easy way of doing it? How do you melt both legs together in order to remove them?

 

[Peter Daniel]

The best way is to use two soldering irons simultanuously, otherwise go step by step slowly pulling each end untill it comes out.

The last you can do (if nothing else works) is to cut off the pins, and solder them later directly to the pads.

 

[carawu]

Hm,


I just imagine Peter holding two irons in one Hand and pulling with the other...some strange kind of zen-art, isn´t it?


A better solution is to use a good solder sucker, nothing less than a Edsyn Soldapult DS 017.
Desoldering Litz/wire is another way, but it´s not that good.

Carsten

 

[Peter Daniel]

Well, I'm talking here about my boards so I know what works. Solder wick or sucker will not be effective as the fit on the holes is rather tight.

You need another person to assist you , but using two soldering irons is the best way to do it, period.

 

[carawu]

Hi Peter,


don´t loose your humor in the cellar (german slang, guess there is no easy way of translating this).

A solder sucker is a good investment in DIY.

And yes, I know your boards. Desoldering some wires or the Zobel-Network is easy this way...not everybody has a 2nd iron and a person to assist...


Regards

Carsten

 

[Peter Daniel]

So you didn't like Zobels?

If another person is not available, I clamp one of the soldering irons in a vice.

 

[safetyman]

Digi Key part # for those caps is BC2054.

Whatever you use here will affect the sound, that's why I'm not using Zobel at all. If you still want to use it, a bigger cap is fine, just adjust the pins so they fit properly.

Peter, am I reading you correctly? Does this mean I can omit these caps? If yes, then all I have to do is replace it with a jumper, right?

The best way is to use two soldering irons simultanuously, otherwise go step by step slowly pulling each end untill it comes out.

The last you can do (if nothing else works) is to cut off the pins, and solder them later directly to the pads.

I can just imagine myself with 2 soldering irons and probably looking like the two gun kid. I kind of figure out why it is so difficult to remove. The solder seeped into the front and when I use the solder sucker to remove the solder on the back, it's the front that is still holding the rectifier to the board. I'll probably need some solder wick and lots of patience to do it but well, it has taught me another lesson. Be sure of what one is doing b4 proceeding.

One other question. Are heatsinks required for the rectifiers? It looks kinda impossible to put heatsinks for them. Would they get very hot and do I need to take some kind of precaution, like installing a fan or the likes?

BTW, everyone who has seen your boards are amazed at how well designed and manufactured they are. Great stuff.

 

[safetyman]

Yet another question. Can I replace the 1500uf with 3300uf caps. I have difficulty sourcing for 1500uf Panasonic caps here. 3300uf Panasonics FC are available.

Thanks.