AudioSector-chip amp kits, dacs, chassis - Page 20

homer09 · 11th April 2005, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Peter Daniel
It's the other way: acrylic has cutouts for aluminum bars. Although not really neccessary, it simplifies assembly as everyhning locks in place, and improves appearance as well.

I really agree, the cutouts are the magic touch on that rack

any reason why top shelve is much thicker than bottom ones?

Stabist · 11th April 2005, 08:39 PM

Aha - so you made all plexiglass work by your self ...

Is it hard to do those cutouts in plexi??

Interesting - been considering about pretty much similar stand for my "Patek Line" recently - but ofcourse - "student budget version" - so smaller and with thinner (15mm ones) shelfes and only 2 wide Al bars at sides for suport ...

Peter Daniel · 11th April 2005, 08:45 PM

It's pretty easy to machine it. The cut outs were done on all 3 panels simultanously, by multiple runs over a router straight bit.

The top panel is thicker, because I had that particular material in stock, and since the top shelf supports a transport, more solid foundation is achieved. All material was bought surplus. The design was dictated by what was available at the moment of coming with the idea

Stabist · 11th April 2005, 09:41 PM

What about drilling and tapping?

I've drilled into plexi some time ago - and until holes were around 3-4mm in diameter - without any problems (at lowest speed possible that my stand alone drill machine provides) - but when trying to make 7-9mm - auch ...

Any tips??

Peter Daniel · 11th April 2005, 10:27 PM

I used 1/4" screws, didn't have any trouble with drilling and tapping. Use some lubricant, it definitely helps, don't let the drill get stuck when it's hot, as it hard to remove it later

For plastiks the drill bit should have sharper angle on the tip.

r8833 · 15th April 2005, 07:10 PM

just received Peter's premium dac kit..looks awesome and easy to finish... Thanks Peter

Peter Daniel · 16th April 2005, 02:04 AM

I made DAC enclosure prototype today. It's pretty straight forward, and no milling is required. If the tube length is chosen properly, attaching font and rear panels can be done by means of on board connectors: RCAs and power module. Additionally, front panel can be glued permanently, rear one provides access to the inside.

The finish is by brushing (on belt sander) and applying alodine, which gives the stainless steel look to the aluminum.

jleaman · 16th April 2005, 02:12 AM

Looks nice peter : O )

motherone · 16th April 2005, 08:37 AM

Peter, you're brutal. You make it look too dang easy.

Hanzwillem · 16th April 2005, 09:11 AM

I thought you preferred wood for at least the bottom plate

11th April 2005, 08:45 PM	#193
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	It's pretty easy to machine it. The cut outs were done on all 3 panels simultanously, by multiple runs over a router straight bit. The top panel is thicker, because I had that particular material in stock, and since the top shelf supports a transport, more solid foundation is achieved. All material was bought surplus. The design was dictated by what was available at the moment of coming with the idea __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

11th April 2005, 10:27 PM	#195
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	I used 1/4" screws, didn't have any trouble with drilling and tapping. Use some lubricant, it definitely helps, don't let the drill get stuck when it's hot, as it hard to remove it later For plastiks the drill bit should have sharper angle on the tip. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

15th April 2005, 07:10 PM	#196
r8833 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: canada	premium dac kit just received Peter's premium dac kit..looks awesome and easy to finish... Thanks Peter

16th April 2005, 09:11 AM	#200
Hanzwillem diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Hengelo, The Netherlands	I thought you preferred wood for at least the bottom plate __________________ They must have been holy chips or something - Pedro

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11th April 2005, 08:39 PM	#192
Stabist diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Slovenia	Aha - so you made all plexiglass work by your self ... Is it hard to do those cutouts in plexi?? Interesting - been considering about pretty much similar stand for my "Patek Line" recently - but ofcourse - "student budget version" - so smaller and with thinner (15mm ones) shelfes and only 2 wide Al bars at sides for suport ...

11th April 2005, 09:41 PM	#194
Stabist diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Slovenia	What about drilling and tapping? I've drilled into plexi some time ago - and until holes were around 3-4mm in diameter - without any problems (at lowest speed possible that my stand alone drill machine provides) - but when trying to make 7-9mm - auch ... Any tips??

16th April 2005, 02:12 AM	#198
jleaman Banned Join Date: Apr 2002	Looks nice peter : O )

16th April 2005, 08:37 AM	#199
motherone diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Seattle	Peter, you're brutal. You make it look too dang easy.

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