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Old 29th June 2007, 12:19 AM   #1801
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Default lm4780

Peter

Thanks for the emails that you have sent so far. I have been reading many of the threads dealing with chip amps and I am finally ready to commit.

I just purchased 4 lm4780 chips and two Switching Power Supply Dual +/-43V 2A for use in a 6 channel chip amp 2 x stereo, 2 x parallel.

I have made a list of parts that I think I still need. I am interested in a premium quality amp; it will be running in a system of a dedicated higher end CD player with variable output (Yamaha CDX 1120), digital 3 way crossover, Peerless HDS component drivers. I am trying to have the best possible sound on a budget.

so here goes the list

2 x 2 lm4780 amplifier pcb:
2 x 8 22k 0.5 w Caddock MK 132 resistors
2 x 4 270R 0.5 w Caddock MK 132 resistors
2 x 4 680R 0.5 w Riken resistors
2 x 2 10k 0.5 w compact film resistors
1 x 4 0.1R 3w Dale LVR3 power resistors (for parallel amps)
2 x 4 1500μF Panasonic FC capacitors

From your experience is this the right combination. Its been a long time since I built an amp.

Is there anything else I should know before I jump into the fire?

Thanks
Dean
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Old 29th June 2007, 05:30 PM   #1802
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4 single channels and two parallel channels ( 6 total) will require the following parts:

2 x 2 lm4780 amplifier pcb:
8 x 22k Caddock MK 132 resistors (feedback)
6 x 22k Caddock (parallel setup reguires only one resistor per channel)
2 x 4 220R 0.5 w Caddock MK 132 resistors (they are recommended for parallel setup, but for stereo you don't really need them so 4 pcs only would be fine)
2 x 4 680R 0.5 w Riken resistors
2 x 2 10k 0.5 w compact film resistors
1 x 4 0.1R 3w Dale LVR3 power resistors (for parallel amps)
2 x 4 1500F Panasonic FC capacitors

This is the right combination.
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Old 30th June 2007, 04:26 PM   #1803
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Default lm4780

Peter
Great!
Please email me the cost and how to pay you via paypal
Thanks
Dean
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Old 5th July 2007, 04:41 AM   #1804
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Hey Peter,

Whats the word on those chassis do you offer those still? Saw it in the beginning of this thread and that one with the burl looks excellent. If you do offer them whats the cost?
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Old 5th July 2007, 06:33 AM   #1805
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dougie085
Hey Peter,

Whats the word on those chassis do you offer those still? Saw it in the beginning of this thread and that one with the burl looks excellent. If you do offer them whats the cost?
The chassis pictured here: http://audiosector.com/chassis_integrated.shtml is available as a kit at $250. All accessories are extra.

Click the image to open in full size.

Mardone Burl is hard to come across and I can't really offer it with a kit, but most other wood choices are possible.
Attached Images
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Old 9th July 2007, 03:13 AM   #1806
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Well I've finally completed the DAC (no more alligator clips !), and is sitting proudly next to my other equipment.

I spent all weekend running music through it, and it does improve substantially once properly warmed up (and it seems to get substantially louder too !).

Sadly, it has revealed some poorly mastered CDs (which probably would have gone unnoticed), and my "transport" is a cheap dvd player, so sometimes the pace feels a little "slow".

Next on the TODO list would be a decent transport (or a player with a decent transport), but as it is now, I'm very satisfied (and so relieved it works ! can you imagine having to desolder a 28 pin SMD IC ? yuk !).

I'll get piccies up soon (no camera atm ...)
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Old 12th July 2007, 08:44 AM   #1807
hayena is offline hayena  Czech Republic
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Default sobwoofer out

Hi Peter,
some time ago, i build an integrated amp from using your kit (very similar to your integrated amp insides).
it sounds sweet, but my monitors lack some lower frequencies, so i build an active subwoofer (sealed box with Peerless XXLS-10)...

Now i wonder, what would be the best way to design special output for this SW in my gainclone.
How would you do it in your integrated?

Thank you!

Filip
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Old 12th July 2007, 10:30 AM   #1808
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
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A number of commercial subs take their output from the speaker terminals on the amp. The main speakers get the full bandwidth feed from the amp and the sub rolls in wherever you set the low pass filter. There are some examples of plate amps designed like this on the BK pages.

The argument is that it 'preserves the sonic character of your main speakers and amplifier'. In reality, it makes life a lot easier for those of us with integrated amps. I've been using a Rega sub in this way with my Naim integrated and it works. Ideally, this technique should be used with sealed main speakers so their enclosures roll off the LF, preventing the drivers getting over-driven at low frequencies.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12th July 2007, 01:25 PM   #1809
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Colin is right. I know REL does this and are very popular. Those of us who have preamps with dual outs can choose between using the RCA out or speaker out. If you do have a preamp, you should try both ways to see what works best in your system and room. However for integrated units, I believe the speaker outs work best. Although with biwired loudspeakers and a pair of subwoofers, things can get crowded back there . !

Anand
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Old 12th July 2007, 06:02 PM   #1810
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
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The Naim forum suggested connecting the sub cables to the terminals on the back of the speaker.

BTW, BK made the original REL subs. I believe REL make them in-house now.
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