Peter Daniel said:I still didn't try FK caps, but something tells me they won't be better than N, however, with the next order of BGs I'll get some 2,200/35 FKs.
I compared with buffer, and without, I also used transformer (SC) in place of a buffer, and to me, the buffer sounded the best. But, I might speculate, that this will also depend on a transport that was used: all my comparisons were done with either CD-Pro2 or ML31.5.
Now, if you are bolting it to a piece of wood, try to loosen those screws, there might be also a difference
The only input transformer I have tried was Newava S22083 recommended by Jocko, this was used in TDA1541 dac, I'm not sure if I prefer it over the MKP1837 0.01uf caps yet
I've not seen many posts regarding the FK's, according to the data sheets they seem to have good specs but of course good specs does not always mean good sound
Loosen the screws I will try that thank you for the tip! some people may laugh but these little things are noticeable
BTW I've just tried some Auricaps as coupling in another dac, I'm currently disapointed with them but I'll give them more time to burn in.
Enough of my babbling keep up the good work
Peter Daniel said:
The major upgrade would be BG N 1000/50 in filtering. The early versions of a DAC were using 4 x 1000/25 BG NX. While those caps come close to N type, this is still not exactly the same. In some systems the sound may be simply too laid back and soft, lacking in bite and dimentionality....
Hi Peter,
This may be a little off topic in this thread, but do you find this true when comparing the BG N and BG NX in a signal coupling position, as well, or is this characteristic mainly when you use them for filtering?
Thanks,
KT
It is exactly the same when it comes to coupling.
Please read this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=491500&highlight=#post491500
Please read this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=491500&highlight=#post491500
bg nonpolar orientation?
I do not find the posting - but did you not post something about the "orientation" of the otherwise nonpolar BG caps?
I applied them with the shorter wire to + pole, just to find a common standard, although I later found out - and stupidly did not check earlier - the the short wire normally means minus on polar elcaps.
Although the DAC obviously works, maybe you already have tested out if there is a difference.
And: is there a simple method to apply a "digital input signal locked" LED?
Klaus
I do not find the posting - but did you not post something about the "orientation" of the otherwise nonpolar BG caps?
I applied them with the shorter wire to + pole, just to find a common standard, although I later found out - and stupidly did not check earlier - the the short wire normally means minus on polar elcaps.
Although the DAC obviously works, maybe you already have tested out if there is a difference.
And: is there a simple method to apply a "digital input signal locked" LED?
Klaus
Hi Peter
Thanks for the reply, I will think about the blackgates. They are $50 each, so four would cost $200, almost as much as I paid for the rest of the dac.
I also noticed you put copper tape on the dac, I assume as an EMI shield?
Have you tried the sonic craft teflon caps? I have heard good things about them from people who tried them, and they are cheaper than v caps.
Randy
Thanks for the reply, I will think about the blackgates. They are $50 each, so four would cost $200, almost as much as I paid for the rest of the dac.
I also noticed you put copper tape on the dac, I assume as an EMI shield?
Have you tried the sonic craft teflon caps? I have heard good things about them from people who tried them, and they are cheaper than v caps.
Randy
Re: bg nonpolar orientation?
Actually my prefer orientation is with a shorter pin on + (or NON POLAR print on +) and is exactly opposite to "normal" orientation of polar caps
As to the second question, see attachment.
lohk said:I do not find the posting - but did you not post something about the "orientation" of the otherwise nonpolar BG caps?
I applied them with the shorter wire to + pole, just to find a common standard, although I later found out - and stupidly did not check earlier - the the short wire normally means minus on polar elcaps.
Although the DAC obviously works, maybe you already have tested out if there is a difference.
And: is there a simple method to apply a "digital input signal locked" LED?
Klaus
Actually my prefer orientation is with a shorter pin on + (or NON POLAR print on +) and is exactly opposite to "normal" orientation of polar caps
As to the second question, see attachment.
Attachments
randytsuch said:Hi Peter
Thanks for the reply, I will think about the blackgates. They are $50 each, so four would cost $200, almost as much as I paid for the rest of the dac.
I also noticed you put copper tape on the dac, I assume as an EMI shield?
Have you tried the sonic craft teflon caps? I have heard good things about them from people who tried them, and they are cheaper than v caps.
I never tried those caps. I put copper tape just in case, as it was mor epermanent instalation. But I didn't notce anything special after applying such tape.
I'm presently using the DAC with a modified Technics Z1000 player and this combo seems to be better than ML31.5/ML360S, no kidding
Attachments
jean-paul said:Hi Peter, do you actually use X7R caps as seen in the schematic ? Just a question.
No, I'm not using them anymore with BG N caps. The schematic was done much earlier and I posted it only to demonstrate the implemetation of "locking" circuit (it is from AckDac, but drawn by someone else). The X7R caps were also added, I don't think you can see them in AckDack in those spots.
Peter Daniel said:
No, I'm not using them anymore with BG N caps. The schematic was done much earlier and I posted it only to demonstrate the implemetation of "locking" circuit (it is from AckDac, but drawn by someone else). The X7R caps were also added, I don't think you can see them in AckDack in those spots.
Thanks, I assumed the schematic was of your DAC and I could not imagine you using ceramic caps. I read a few times you do not use them anymore, that's why. They do deteriorate sound but sometimes they are really needed ( unfortunately ).
And that's complete unit from the inside. I had it in storage for last 5 years (bought in '96) and was almost ready to list it on audiogone, before given one final listen. After changing most of the caps and adding SPDIF output (the unit comes only with optical output) the sound was completely transformed.
http://k-nisi.hp.infoseek.co.jp/sl-z1000+sh-x1000.html
http://k-nisi.hp.infoseek.co.jp/sl-z1000+sh-x1000.html
Attachments
jean-paul said:
I assumed the schematic was of your DAC ...
My DAC's schematic like in attachment.
Attachments
Well, thank you - I would not have been veryy happy to resolder them again.
And thank you for the schematic.
The DAC - only recently finished - sounds better every day, and very good from the start anyway. I must admit that I was a bit sceptic beforehand... Highly listenable, musical and precise at the same time (and I have listened to many already).
Klaus
And thank you for the schematic.
The DAC - only recently finished - sounds better every day, and very good from the start anyway. I must admit that I was a bit sceptic beforehand... Highly listenable, musical and precise at the same time (and I have listened to many already).
Klaus
Green Board Kit
Peter,
I am planning to use a toroid for the off pcb transformer on my Greenboard DAC. I am unsure of what voltage to apply and what VA rating would be appropriate. I found some seemingly conflicting information as I scanned through the various posts on this project.
Thanks for a great project!
Peter Daniel said:
The second board, does not accomodate transformer, and it has to be mounted separately. This is designed with exact the same parts in mind as the first one, additionally it can also accomodate 2 regulator circuits, acting as battery chargers, (if someone wants to use battery power). This board allows direct mount of both RCA and BNC input and RCA output (dual Vampire type) http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=604709#post604709
Peter,
I am planning to use a toroid for the off pcb transformer on my Greenboard DAC. I am unsure of what voltage to apply and what VA rating would be appropriate. I found some seemingly conflicting information as I scanned through the various posts on this project.
Thanks for a great project!
wow i finally had a chance to finish it and fire it up on the computers spdif out. i ended up using a external transformer to power it up. when i get the chance ill try ir on the cd player.
as it burns in does the sound change any?
sounds great so far
cheers
as it burns in does the sound change any?
sounds great so far
cheers
Attachments
Originally posted by karma
sounds great so far
It does. I hooked it up immediately after finishing the assembly. Even though I hadn't listenened to my cd-player for days, the improvement was obvious in a few seconds.
As I didn't trust my judgement, I asked a friend over for a second opinion.
First I adjusted the sound level of the analogue output to match the DAC's. Then, I played some music through both analogue output and DAC, asking him which option he prefered without telling him what he was listening to. He immediately went for the DAC, after listening for just five seconds to either source.
The most obvious difference between my (ancient) stock Onkyo DX-7711 and the DAC was its far superior placement of instruments and voices in the room. My speakers are aging (1978 B&W DM7's) and their resolution is very limited, so there will be many more differences to discover after I finally upgrade to a better set of speakers
Finishing the housing seems to take far more time than assembling the kit. I hope to have it finished in a few weeks
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