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#1261 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Capital City Area
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Peter,
Thanks for the kit. Received it today and it looks great. Can't wait to get it done and playing. I have a few left over Black gates and was wondering if it would be a good idea to use two 4.7 uF caps in super-e-caps configuration after U2 and U3 (AN8005). You had 10 uF caps in original schematic but had crossed over the value and changed it to 4.7 uF. Is 4.7 uF better than 10 uF or have you changed the value for some other reason? |
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#1262 |
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diyAudio Member
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I tried Super-E configuration in coupling only, but didn't like it, I'm not sure how it works as bypas.
This is a redesigned board layout, accepting only SMD version of CS8412. I changed the value of the bypass caps to provide more open, faster sound. I have a feeling it will work well with new board layout. I also want to keep things simplified, less different cap values to deal with. Besides that, the power supply traces have been also simplified, there is an option for BG N 1000/50 main filter caps (two of them mount outside the board), bleeder resistor option added after coupling caps (R11/R12, but I don't feel they needed), additional holes for Caddock TF020 in I/V, and improved layout of high voltage traces on transformer's primary (with two holes for proper fuse mounting). I didn't asembled any of the new boards yet, but I hope the layout is OK ![]() C10 mounts on a bottom, attached directly to pins of R6 and C8. R6 is 220R now. As usually, with BG N short lead (NON POLAR print side) is recommended to mount on + side. Due to falling exchange rate of USD, the DAC kit price has been increased to $230.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1263 |
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diyAudio Member
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Regarding the proper phase, the DAC is Non Inverting now. Schematic attched (new version has changes to one resistor value and two caps values).
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1264 |
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diyAudio Member
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The chassis is not really needed here, I like to mount the DAC on a maple board only (Hammond 50W transformer, Cardas dual RCAs and power module are not included in a kit price but are also available).
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1265 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: SF
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Quote:
What's the current USD price with the Hammond 50W, Cardas dual RCAs and power module? -Rob |
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#1266 |
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diyAudio Member
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Transformer with power module is $30, Cardas dual RCAs $20. The maple board, including bronze standoffs and stainless screws, $20.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1267 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: SF
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Anyone seen this?
Wikipedia GAIN CLONE definition Rightly mentions Peter Daniel, but still could use a re-write. -Rob |
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#1268 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Capital City Area
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Could someone do a brief check on the boards, please. I haven't powered up the DAC yet. Well.. I guess I didn't screw up anything and I can always get new parts if I fry something.
Instead of using one 4,7 uF cap in the output I used two as super-E-Caps. The solder joint fuse was a great idea but not suitable for 230 V. I soldered the fuse holders sideways. I first tried soldering a fuse straight to the board but the fuse broke when heated. All in all this was a very straight forward job and I didn't have any problems building the board. These's a few pics in this gallery: http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/show...00/ppuser/3104 |
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#1269 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Capital City Area
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"#¤@£€¤!!! I totally forgot the BNC connector. I don't have any I'll have to wait until monday to get one. Maybe an ice cold beer will help In my dream I was drowning my sorrows But my sorrows, they learned to swim |
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#1270 |
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diyAudio Member
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The components look like they are installed correctly. Regarding the fuse, although it's rated 125V it should work fine with 230V. I asked Upupa Epops about it and he confirmed.
I tested few different types, but that one seemed to sound the best here. You can temporary solder RCA input and try it like that.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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