AudioSector-chip amp kits, dacs, chassis

[Peter Daniel]

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[karma]

i still have one of your lm4780 kits, could it be implemented
to fit in this case if i dont run the rails to high?

im interested

[Peter Daniel]

The chassis is big enough to dissipate heat from parallel version of LM4780, you can run the rails to the limit.

LM4780 PCB also fits in that chassis. I've built few amps using that chip here.

[jleaman]

So tempted to buy one..

[edjosh23]

Peter, it looks like you have completely stopped wiring the amp boards with all wires from the PSU, similar to the Patek.

Josh

[chipco3434]

Peter, what is the make & model of the input selector you are using in the above design?

[Rob Thomas]

Originally posted by Peter Daniel
This amp has additional toggle switch at the back that disconnects the pot completely from signal path. One set of inputs is connected directly to amp's input on the board, so it can be configured in power amp mode only (bypassing source selector and potentiometer).

Nice feature.

Great looking amp.

I'm thinking of starting a thread for "The Ugliest DIY Amp Contest"...

Who could beat this? (The EVS Nude attenuators work great with it.)

[Rob Thomas]

I hate to tell ya', but you haven't heard what the LM3875 can do until you've heard it driven with 200Hz power.

I was playing Hans Zimmer's GLADIATOR soundtrack today and was wondering if I was restricting bass extension and dynamics at all powering the Gainclone via my Elgar power regenerator.

The Elgar 251B is a lab grade power regenerator capable of 250VA at 400Hz. With the 9012 controller you can select any voltage and any frequency up to 400Hz. The PS Audio Power Plants are largely the same thing, but go to 120Hz, and offer Multiwave options. I have a P300 with Multiwave, and it's not nearly as much power as the Elgar, and actually doesn't sound as good on amps. Multiwave is great for front end components though.

The Elgars do have noisy fans that need to be padded down to make them quiet if they're kept in the listening room. I also have the smaller Elgar 121B, which is great for front-end components and even small amps like a 2A3, but doesn't really have enough current to drive most amps hard.

Now granted, the toroid on my Gainclone is 400VA, (and rated to 400Hz), but with my 97dB efficient line arrays, the Peter Daniel Gainclone barely warms up, even at insane volumes.

None the less, when I went straight into the wall versus powering from the Elgar at 90Hz, it seemed I was losing a little bit of bass energy, (if you know this soundtrack, that's easy to do).

So I started working up the power frequency on the Elgar. At 200Hz I got all the magic of regenerated power, better detail, timbre, imaging, but also restored the full bass and dynamic impact of the straight wall connection. (200Hz also makes the amp seem insanely fast, highs sound like a Halcro.)

Had me laughing out loud it sounded so good.

The Elgar:

[edjosh23]

A little off topic, sorry.

Rob, Sorry, but I think I take the cake for ugliest project, with my first DIY project ever. This is quite embarassing, but here is my first GC. And I can't stress more that, it was 5 days after my 16th birthday and that I have learned from my mistakes.

Josh

[Colin]

Hi Peter

What is the cost for an integrated amp front panel alone?

Colin