It's hard to say, some people are more sensitive to burn in process than others.
To me Caddocks sound like Caddocks right from a start, and if they ever break in, it probably improves them only slightly.
Of course, I don't like those resistors everywhere, and only use them in selected spots in amp and DAC circuits.
To me Caddocks sound like Caddocks right from a start, and if they ever break in, it probably improves them only slightly.
Of course, I don't like those resistors everywhere, and only use them in selected spots in amp and DAC circuits.
Thanks Peter
I built an amplifier name by ProFet , only use 8pc resistor 3pc capacitor 1pair lateral mosfet and 1pair jet and no need for preamp .
To upgrade I purchased Caddock resistors and I use one side the Caddock's another side regular 1% metal film resistors
so I can com pair if there is a improvement or not .
The Caddock side after 3 hours listening it sound a bit thicker and warmer , much sweetness in the music but the regular resistor it since to me there is more openness of course much thinner .
What type of resistors you advise what I can use all over in any amp?
I don't want to spend days to test which resistor were bring improvement .
If you have any advise(favorite resistor) please let me know .
I ask you because you did some tests on resistors .
Greetings
I built an amplifier name by ProFet , only use 8pc resistor 3pc capacitor 1pair lateral mosfet and 1pair jet and no need for preamp .
To upgrade I purchased Caddock resistors and I use one side the Caddock's another side regular 1% metal film resistors
so I can com pair if there is a improvement or not .
The Caddock side after 3 hours listening it sound a bit thicker and warmer , much sweetness in the music but the regular resistor it since to me there is more openness of course much thinner .
What type of resistors you advise what I can use all over in any amp?
I don't want to spend days to test which resistor were bring improvement .
If you have any advise(favorite resistor) please let me know .
I ask you because you did some tests on resistors .
Greetings
Re: Thanks Peter
John,
I'm glad you like it. After so many years this circuit still sounds quite amazing to me as well
Whenever I build a new circuit, I'm always puzzled by resistor choices myself. When using exotic brands the results are hard to predict. I usually place Caddocks at input shunt and feedback positions and it works well. I use Vishay S102 in series position and when I want to save on cost, Rikens are chosen.
If I'm to recommend one type for everything, it would probably be Dale RN55
DigiKey carries now Dale CMF55, which seems to be the same thing.
John,
I'm glad you like it. After so many years this circuit still sounds quite amazing to me as well
gaborbela said:
Whenever I build a new circuit, I'm always puzzled by resistor choices myself. When using exotic brands the results are hard to predict. I usually place Caddocks at input shunt and feedback positions and it works well. I use Vishay S102 in series position and when I want to save on cost, Rikens are chosen.
If I'm to recommend one type for everything, it would probably be Dale RN55
DigiKey carries now Dale CMF55, which seems to be the same thing.
Old thumpers back
Peter,
I have tried your suggestions and failed! Firstly I established a Star ground by connecting all four CHG points with solid copper wire, to this I attached all the PG+ and PG- wires from the two regulator boards. The sound seem to be better but the switch-off thump (on the bass speakers only - sorry for not mentioning that before) was still there.
So next I took all the speaker negative leads and soldered them to the star ground - still the thump - but again possibly better sound.
So next I swapped the two transformers / regulators round - you guessed - still thumps. The reason for trying this was that I have the mid/tweeter amps on the Polish transformers (which have an earth lead on them) and the Bass amps on the Airlink transformers. I am trying to load a circuit showing the ground / earthing arrangement only.
Perhaps I will just leave them on all the time!!
Might it be better to run each bass amplifier from its own transformer / regulator - or is that just going to make matters worse?
Thanks
Alan
Peter,
I have tried your suggestions and failed! Firstly I established a Star ground by connecting all four CHG points with solid copper wire, to this I attached all the PG+ and PG- wires from the two regulator boards. The sound seem to be better but the switch-off thump (on the bass speakers only - sorry for not mentioning that before) was still there.
So next I took all the speaker negative leads and soldered them to the star ground - still the thump - but again possibly better sound.
So next I swapped the two transformers / regulators round - you guessed - still thumps. The reason for trying this was that I have the mid/tweeter amps on the Polish transformers (which have an earth lead on them) and the Bass amps on the Airlink transformers. I am trying to load a circuit showing the ground / earthing arrangement only.
Perhaps I will just leave them on all the time!!
Might it be better to run each bass amplifier from its own transformer / regulator - or is that just going to make matters worse?
Thanks
Alan
Attachments
Why not keeping transformers separate and all the grounds with respect to each transformer also separate? So you would have two completely separate PS; one for mids and highs, the other for bass.
The star grounds from each power supply would only connect through 10R resistor with a chassis.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=yJQFf0qj9Nk
The star grounds from each power supply would only connect through 10R resistor with a chassis.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=yJQFf0qj9Nk
More digital inputs
I am planning 3 inputs, two COAX and one optical. I will follow your recommendations with selector close to circuit or relay.
I would like to use 75Ohm terminators on each line before selector to secure termination also on not selected channels, will this give problems?
I am planning 3 inputs, two COAX and one optical. I will follow your recommendations with selector close to circuit or relay.
I would like to use 75Ohm terminators on each line before selector to secure termination also on not selected channels, will this give problems?
ecky thump (Yorkshire expression)
Peter,
Still no luck! I am begining to believe that the problem lies in the way the two bass amplifiers are fed by the same signal and that it may be better to take only one lead from the electronic cross-over to amplifier boards and to daisy loop the Signal Inputs on these two amplifiers.
I had seen somewhere that some people cure this type of fault by shorting the power rail to ground when the amplifier is switched off - one assumes using a DPDT switch with the off-position linking resistors from the V+ to Ov.
Is that possible / wise with these boards / psu?
If all else fails I will just accept the thump as I do not wish to compromise the sound I am getting.
Regards
Alan
Peter,
Still no luck! I am begining to believe that the problem lies in the way the two bass amplifiers are fed by the same signal and that it may be better to take only one lead from the electronic cross-over to amplifier boards and to daisy loop the Signal Inputs on these two amplifiers.
I had seen somewhere that some people cure this type of fault by shorting the power rail to ground when the amplifier is switched off - one assumes using a DPDT switch with the off-position linking resistors from the V+ to Ov.
Is that possible / wise with these boards / psu?
If all else fails I will just accept the thump as I do not wish to compromise the sound I am getting.
Regards
Alan
Peter Daniel said:
Well, today I got response from that person and this is how it worked out:
... the Macbook does recognize the DAC as USB device. However, I still can not control the volume using Apple Front Row/Itunes and the tiny white remote that came with my IMAC. Fortunately, I have another solution: the Apple IPOD Touch that was free with the computer purchase and remote control software from Apple. Other companies off similar software with more capabilities (Remote Buddy and Signal) but I found Apple Remote to be much simpler to use. The volume feature works great, too.
As for sound, the DAC is truly amazing! I can't believe how much better music sounds, so much clearer and detailed yet totally natural, and the bass response...... stunning. The sound quality is much better than my Marantz SACD-14 player ($2,600 new but recently sold) and as good as a CDX2 ($6,000+) which I recently tried in my system.) All this from a product that has yet to be broken-in and using 10' USB cables from Lowes. (Kimber USBs are on order.) The internet buzz is right, you have a fantastic product and I'm a now in your fan club.
I'm quite amazed myself, as the USB DAC seems to be a sleeper. Whoever gets it, always likes it and the response seems to be even better than with the SPDIF version which was around for quite a while.
Here's a link to Audiocricle and some more comments: http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=56975.0
Peter,
Can you post a link for all the info regarding the USB dac? Such as cost for boards, boards + parts, bill of materials, etc...?
Hope all is well with you. Since I last visited you, I am glad the USB dac is taking off quite well. Removing the last SPDIF conversion layer probably is the secret, its simpler and cheaper.
Kind regards to you and your family,
Anand.
Can you post a link for all the info regarding the USB dac? Such as cost for boards, boards + parts, bill of materials, etc...?
Hope all is well with you. Since I last visited you, I am glad the USB dac is taking off quite well. Removing the last SPDIF conversion layer probably is the secret, its simpler and cheaper.
Kind regards to you and your family,
Anand.
Here you are, the parts list and attached schematic:
1000/25 BG STD 2pcs
1000/25 BG NX 2pcs
47/50 BG N 1pc
USB 1pc ED90064
MSR 860 8pcs
Line Filter 2pcs PLK1077
Dale 20R 6pcs
Ferrite Bead 2pcs P9818BK
AN8003 3pcs
AN8008 1pc
10/50 BG N 1pcs
15/20 OsCon 1pcs
4.7/50 BG N 3pcs
1k5 Dale 2pc
1M Dale 1pc
TDA1543 1pc
PCM 2706 1pc
Clock 12Mhz 1pc 549-C3391-12.000
2k7 Riken 2pcs
1k5 Riken 1pc
AC Module 1pc
PCB fuse 1pc 507-1032
1000/25 BG STD 2pcs
1000/25 BG NX 2pcs
47/50 BG N 1pc
USB 1pc ED90064
MSR 860 8pcs
Line Filter 2pcs PLK1077
Dale 20R 6pcs
Ferrite Bead 2pcs P9818BK
AN8003 3pcs
AN8008 1pc
10/50 BG N 1pcs
15/20 OsCon 1pcs
4.7/50 BG N 3pcs
1k5 Dale 2pc
1M Dale 1pc
TDA1543 1pc
PCM 2706 1pc
Clock 12Mhz 1pc 549-C3391-12.000
2k7 Riken 2pcs
1k5 Riken 1pc
AC Module 1pc
PCB fuse 1pc 507-1032
The SPDIF DAC has been around since 2005 and there are few reviews on 6moons, most recent one here: http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/audiozone5/system.html
The USB DAC was introduced last year and it's basically same circuit with exception of input interface which converts USB signal directly to I2S.
SPDIF DAC kit is $280, transformer additional $30 and Cardas dual RCA $20.
USB DAC kit is $250, transformer and RCA extra.
Both DACs are also available as assembled and tested circuits, mounted on wooden board, at $80 more.
The USB DAC was introduced last year and it's basically same circuit with exception of input interface which converts USB signal directly to I2S.
SPDIF DAC kit is $280, transformer additional $30 and Cardas dual RCA $20.
USB DAC kit is $250, transformer and RCA extra.
Both DACs are also available as assembled and tested circuits, mounted on wooden board, at $80 more.
Attachments
Hi there Peter!
Glad to see you're still getting rave comments about your NOS Dac, and rightly so. I really do enjoy digital as much as (if not more!) than a good vinyl system now.
I'm making the move to an audio-server - it's so much more conveniant, and once you have your CDs ripped accurately and stored on an external HD you never again have to worry about whether your transport is reading the discs accurately or not... there IS no transport any longer I love my Shigaclone, but the performance from my PC is not that far behind it. I'm moving over to a MAC based system this week which I hope will improve things further.
Is there anyway I can convert my SPDIF NOS DAC to the USB version, or do I need to order a totally new USB board and use the parts from my SPDIF in that?
Thank you, and again cheers for all the enjoyment I'm getting from your DAC.
- John
Glad to see you're still getting rave comments about your NOS Dac, and rightly so. I really do enjoy digital as much as (if not more!) than a good vinyl system now.
I'm making the move to an audio-server - it's so much more conveniant, and once you have your CDs ripped accurately and stored on an external HD you never again have to worry about whether your transport is reading the discs accurately or not... there IS no transport any longer
I love my Shigaclone, but the performance from my PC is not that far behind it. I'm moving over to a MAC based system this week which I hope will improve things further.Is there anyway I can convert my SPDIF NOS DAC to the USB version, or do I need to order a totally new USB board and use the parts from my SPDIF in that?
Thank you, and again cheers for all the enjoyment I'm getting from your DAC.
- John
John,
You can build a Hagerman USB and then plug its SPDIF out into the SPDIF in on your NOS dac, but to be honest....
I would just buy Peter's USB NOS dac version and be done with it. Its excellently designed as the input interface is superior to a standard SPDIF or even if a HagUSB is used.
Best,
Anand.
You can build a Hagerman USB and then plug its SPDIF out into the SPDIF in on your NOS dac, but to be honest....
I would just buy Peter's USB NOS dac version and be done with it. Its excellently designed as the input interface is superior to a standard SPDIF or even if a HagUSB is used.
Best,
Anand.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.