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Old 27th March 2006, 06:13 PM   #1051
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Thanks for the help Peter, but lets say if i want to use an SLA battery, what would the connections be from the battery's +,- terminals to the amp board pbc?
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Old 27th March 2006, 06:28 PM   #1052
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It would be done as in attached picture (+/- 24V supply).
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Old 28th March 2006, 12:38 PM   #1053
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
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I did try the wall warts on the NOS DAC.... a 12V regulated and a 12V switch mode. They both worked but the DAC lost life, slam and was not as involving.... a bit lightweight. Was a worthwhile test while building my second DAC.

End result.... stick with a normal tranny and the designed power supply.
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Old 28th March 2006, 02:38 PM   #1054
Szabcsi is offline Szabcsi  Hungary
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Hi Peter,

I have been happily listening to my Gainclone, built from the premium kit you sold me, for about a year now. It amazes not only me but everyone who comes around and listenes to some music with me. (Some of them already built a Gainclone based on the experience.)

Now it came to my mind that I could upgrade it by changing the Panasonic caps to Black Gates as you suggest. I would have three questions:

1) How would you describe the sonic changes with the 1000 uF std + 100 uF non-polar compared to the 1000 uF Panasonic caps? Is it more natural, more transparent, more open? (on the rectifier board I presently use the small (10 uF) caps which were part of the kit)

2) In Post #997 you show a photo of the rectifier board you use. I can see there, besides the 1000 uF caps beneath the board, some small caps (? film) and some resistors (?). Do you actually use them? Or only the large caps on the rectifier and 100 uF at the amp pins?

3) How big sonic difference can one make by changing the chassis material? I am thinking about some nice wood or acrillic instead of the present aluminum.

Thanks in advance.
Szabolcs
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Old 28th March 2006, 03:21 PM   #1055
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I'm certainly familiar with your listening impressions as they are quoted on my website

Here, I described my impressons, when listening to different capacitor types:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...431#post574431

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...230#post581230

The additional parts in a mentioned photo are for snubber application, which I'm not using. Those were only there for presentation purpose.

I would compare the changes from different chassis materials to the changes interconnects bring, depends on a setup, they may be not pronounced that much though.

My favourite example is that thread: Suggestions for lid material
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Old 28th March 2006, 04:41 PM   #1056
karma is offline karma  Canada
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peter what your trick for drilling good straight holes in metal.

its just i got this far and i allways mess it up with the drillpress


thanks
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Old 28th March 2006, 04:51 PM   #1057
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When you do it on drill press, the holes should be straight. I also drill pilot holes first, then final hole. For larger holes, I use low speed. The deWalt, Bullet drill bits from Home Depot are my choice for aluminum: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...ht=#post394048
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Old 28th March 2006, 04:57 PM   #1058
karma is offline karma  Canada
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oops i forgot

thanks
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Old 28th March 2006, 06:02 PM   #1059
karma is offline karma  Canada
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well for now i ended up using a drill bit you would use to make a hole for deadbolts i improvised

hows this for art. i still need to put the bottom on and around the edges cut it 45 deg

final resting place for the dac

thanks for your help
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Old 28th March 2006, 06:11 PM   #1060
karma is offline karma  Canada
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top shot notice how centered the tube is to the hole



cheers
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