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Old 16th March 2006, 01:32 PM   #991
DaveM is offline DaveM  United States
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Karma,

I don't know if that is true plexiglass (polycarbonate) or lexan. I have cut polycarbonate many times with a table saw, and it is very very touchy. It likes to crack and split. It is not dangerous, but the material tends to crack and run just like a cracked windshield. You need to be very particular about your saw setup. Any little bit of back cut on the blade can cause the plexi to chip and break out. So, take your time on setup and do some test cust on some scrap (if you have it).

The other place to pay particular attention is when you go to drill and attach it to something. When you tighten a screw into it, it likes to shatter around the hole. The trick is to use a bar of aluminum to spead the pressure out when attaching it.

Lexan on the other hand is a completely different beast. It takes abuse and keeps coming back for more. The lexan tends to do more melting than splitting. It is well worth the extra pennies IMO.

Good luck and keep all those digits where they belong.

DaveM
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Old 16th March 2006, 01:48 PM   #992
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Quote:
Originally posted by -=Zepplock=-
then I connect Vcc of optical to my 5V (which is a 1st leg of U5) - the voltage on R3-R4 drops to 4.4 immediately. The R3-R4 get very hot and eventually (~10 min) the sound stops. The voltage of Vcc on optical is 4.2.
It may be that your optical receiver takes too much current and creates bigger than expected drop on R3/R4.

In the past, I was using TORX179 with a seperate 5V regulator, and didn't experience such problems.

Try to short both resistors and measure voltage before 5V reg, with optical receiver connected.
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Old 16th March 2006, 04:02 PM   #993
Garnett is offline Garnett  United Kingdom
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Yeehah! My kit arrived yesterday! It all looks fantastic! I've downloaded the pdf and I'm ready to go (once my multimeter arrives and I've learnt how to solder - yep, I'm that clueless).

I've just had a quick read of the first few pages of this thread and don't think I can manage the other 90. So, and I know this is a big ask, can anyone tell me if there're any improvements on the original premium kit I should know about before I start building?

I'm trying to document everything as I go, so hopefully you'll only have to spell it out once and then you can refer people to my pages.

Thanks for any replies. Thinking about it, should this be a new thread under chip amps? I don't want to hi-jack this thread. Let me know and I'll move it.
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Old 16th March 2006, 04:24 PM   #994
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What you can upgrade in Premium kit are filter caps. Normally, I supply Panasonic FC, but for the best version I would recommend BG N 100/50 directly at the chip and BG STD 1000/50 at rectifiers. Everything else stays the same (you also need a very good transformer for best results).

This is the exact configuration I'm using in an award winning Patek amp:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 16th March 2006, 06:00 PM   #995
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I have decided to go with a Plitron!

Now I have to ask, because I think I will buy some BG's as you mentioned and I have seen.....

Where did you attach the BG's on the rectifier board? I think I can figure out where they go on the amplifier board
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Old 16th March 2006, 06:09 PM   #996
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I ordered my Plitron but it will take 4-5 weeks
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Old 16th March 2006, 06:32 PM   #997
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I'm also always short on transformers from Plitron. I plan to make a larger order, so I should have them available for kit users.

The rectifiers board has additional holes to mount caps.
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Old 16th March 2006, 06:53 PM   #998
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
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Congratulations on the award, Peter. It's good when something as neatly designed and original-looking as the Pateks gets recognised.

BTW, did anything further happen about a new integrated amp chassis, mentioned a while ago in this thread?

Colin
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Old 16th March 2006, 09:43 PM   #999
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Yeah it is a great peice.

Ok Peter now you know I have to ask....

What do you have on C3, C4, R1 and R2? (R3 is just for the Knome hat LED right?)

Yeah I am nosy, but I figure I might as well make the best freaking amplifier I can. I plan to use this in my main with some FR125s horn floor standards I believe... Plus I LOVE solid state!

While some believe building a chipamp should be done for as cheap as possible.... I disagree on that account and on wire account. The difference in wire is phenominal alone. As I said in another thing, with my desktop setup I can hear the difference between having banana ends on my speaker cable from belden 9259 feeding from my laptops 1/8 jack into an amplifier then to some 871 TB's....

I plan to go with nothing short of at least high copper content brass for this entire thing.
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Old 17th March 2006, 02:16 AM   #1000
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What if I add dedicated regulator for optical and connect it directly to 8V inputs?


Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel


It may be that your optical receiver takes too much current and creates bigger than expected drop on R3/R4.

In the past, I was using TORX179 with a seperate 5V regulator, and didn't experience such problems.

Try to short both resistors and measure voltage before 5V reg, with optical receiver connected.
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