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#231 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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I am also one of the DIYers who recently asked Peter for a DAC kit unlikely sold out. I was able to built Peter's chipamp kit, but it was fundamental Peter's thread on gainclone instructions for beginners. Can you address me to a similar thread? Thank you Renato |
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#232 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Czyżeminek, near Łódź
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Quote:
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I mean, you could just solder it together on a protoboard as per Peter's schematic, and it would likely work fine - all I'm saying is that the range of trouble you could potentially run into is much broader than with a Gainclone... So I do not think there is a thread with instructions for beginners because without the kit, it is not really a project for beginners...
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#233 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Quote:
Renato |
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#234 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Hi guys, great thread BTW. I'm thinking of connecting TDA1543 to my TE7022 USB-I2S converter. Do i need to change something? There are following pins at the converter: MCLK, LRCK, DATA, SCLK. How should i connect it to TDA input? DATA-DATA, MCLK-BCK and what with the other two?
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#235 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I am planning to use the balanced version (with 2 1543) to drive a balanced circlotron amp
Do I need matched 1543? how to match them? Any advice on coupling caps / non coupling caps and volume control on a full balanced system? |
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#236 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hangzhou - Marco Polo's 'most beautiful city'. 700yrs is a long time though...
Blog Entries: 62
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This is probably extreme heresy but I haven't yet found X7R ceramics to be a limitation on sound quality when used as couplers, so long as they're over-sized to mitigate against the voltage coefficient. Currently I have 6 paralleled 4u7 6.3V in 0603 size as output couplers for my DAC.
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When a measure becomes a target, it ceases to be a good measure. C.A.E. Goodhart |
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#237 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Czyżeminek, near Łódź
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This simplified DAC should actually sound better than original - with the following reservations: - the original NOS DAC used very high quality passive components (Black Gate, Riken, Caddock), some of which are no longer available. - the IC regulators that Peter liked are also no longer produced, and somewhat hard to obtain, which means you may have to resort to LM78xx-type regulators (which will likely sound worse). Where simplicity is not that important, one could go with any of the new low-noise regulators, or buy/make a "super regulator" (such as the Bobken reg discussed here earlier). - using different regulators could mean that the optimal values for their output caps are now different. - your shielding arrangements, and wire routing choices will have some impact on the sound, and may sound a bit worse than Peter's PCB (although it may sound better too). - the classic DAC uses a ferrite bead at the input if the regulator U3. I prefer the sound without it, but some people like it. It does (theoretically) make sense to install it if you use a single trafo, because it will limit "spreading the contaminations" in the power supply. One could probably go even further with the simplification, and feed the regulators from the same PSU, but I think that would be going a bit too far in terms of sound quality compromise, and it would not simplify things that much (if you know how to build one diode bridge, then you certainly know how to build another).
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Studio Zèy - natural, hand-crafted components for hi-end audio. "Dare to be different, and you may stumble upon something amazing." |
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#238 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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#239 |
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diyAudio Member
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This post shows the most cost effective way to convert my original DAC into recently updated version. For even simpler approach, discreet regulators on receiver chip could be also omitted: Pushing the limits of TDA1543 NOS DAC
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#240 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks Peter - just to clarify; do you mean that VD+, VA+ and M1 on the CS8412 chip can be fed by a single AN8005 regulator rather than two?
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