Remote doesn't work
First, thank you very much at Peter Daniel for this great thread.
I have finished this project but I need some help from someone.
The CD spins and displays the number of song, but when I try the remote or buttons on the control board nothing happens. I didn’t cut the display board and plugged only the ribbon cable. May be I missed something.
Thank you for your help
First, thank you very much at Peter Daniel for this great thread.
I have finished this project but I need some help from someone.
The CD spins and displays the number of song, but when I try the remote or buttons on the control board nothing happens. I didn’t cut the display board and plugged only the ribbon cable. May be I missed something.
Thank you for your help
Tweeks...
Ok, so far I've just lurked around and read what wiser folks have had to say... Maybe it's time for me to give my input on the matter. =)
I've quite extensively been tweaking with different cap values, resistor values and also with tree different transformers. It has took countless of hours and literally hundreds of walks between sofa and system rack. Here is what I've learnt about the affect of these different changes to the transport.
Output resistors. The given values of 100ohms and 300ohms are the best in my opinion. Have tried 70, 90 and 100 ohms, also 270 and 300 ohms and different combinations of these. 100/300 ohms (Dale resistors) give the richest and the most natural sound. Other combinations make the sound more stringent, harder and thinner.
Power caps. Power caps are all Nichicon KG. I found the best combination to be 2000uF and 1000uF. Peter has settled to 1000uF/1000uF. I thought the extra 1000uF to the first value gave more depth and soundstage as well as a little 'darker' but at the same time vivid sound. Above 2000uF was too much for me. Also I tried different power rating values. I though 100V is better that 50V or 63V. Again more vividness and dept in soundstage.
Tried a couple of different regulators also. Peters recomended National LM7808 was best.
The C916 cap. A few caps tried. Nichicon Muse was best. Here I also differ a little from Peters value. I thought 470uF/50V was best. In my system increasing the value from 47uf to 470uF brings richness, correct timber, bigger soundstage and more naturalness. But here bigger power rating wasn't better. 100V made the soundstage deeper but also made the bass sluggish and the transits more slow and lifeless.
The transformer. First I had a torroid 120V transformer (Trafox/muuntosähkö) changed that to the recommended 96VA Hammond transformer and finally changed that to Hammond 120VA (266P24) transformer. The Hammond 96VA was quite a bit better than the torroid transformer. Much more dynamic and clean, had snap and timber. However I felt all the time that I was missing some bass slam (someone did comment here that the "original" version was only a little bass shy) so I ordered the same transformer but with 120VA power rating. That did the trick. Also the fact that there is more bass (not just quantity) gave the sound much better soundstage dept, made voices, acoustic guitars ets. much more real. Without the bass power the instruments were more reflections of the real thing but with the more powerful transformer they have become quite real, have impact, dept, timber and also at the same time have a pleasant lushness that sounds superb.
I do see that the transformer choice is system dependent. I have a quite revealing full range system with the presens region quite prompt. Here the more powerful transformer was very nice but I can see that in a more bass heavy/a little less revealing system the 96VA transformer could the better choice.
And of course all these findings are valid in my system, my power cords, cables etc, YMMV. My system consists of VAC amps, Lessloss cables and Ascendo C8 speakers.
Just a little comment about the digi cable. I've tryed a bundle of different ones but Nirvana Audio's T-2 which I've used for quite a while was the one that sounded clearly the best - until I tried Lessloss. Lessloss is so organic and natural with a wall covering soundstage that I just kept smiling.
And it doesn't cost an arm and leg. Very recommended.
A little bit about my preferences in music just to bring some back ground to what I try to listen to and accomplish with my tweaks. I am lucky enough to get to listen to live music weekly, almost daily. I play the guitar and some piano also. So I think I have some understanding how music should sound as apposite to being 'just hifi'. Secondly I prefer acoustic music. I like to listen to timber and naturalness of instruments and voices - even dynamics comes second.
If all this helps someone - great! =) But still a huge thanks to Peter for this opportunity! I once compared this (then still very much under development) transport to the PS Audio's PerfectWave transport and though this DIY version was better.
So far it's been a facinating and instructive journey. =)
Thanks Peter!
Ok, so far I've just lurked around and read what wiser folks have had to say... Maybe it's time for me to give my input on the matter. =)
I've quite extensively been tweaking with different cap values, resistor values and also with tree different transformers. It has took countless of hours and literally hundreds of walks between sofa and system rack. Here is what I've learnt about the affect of these different changes to the transport.
Output resistors. The given values of 100ohms and 300ohms are the best in my opinion. Have tried 70, 90 and 100 ohms, also 270 and 300 ohms and different combinations of these. 100/300 ohms (Dale resistors) give the richest and the most natural sound. Other combinations make the sound more stringent, harder and thinner.
Power caps. Power caps are all Nichicon KG. I found the best combination to be 2000uF and 1000uF. Peter has settled to 1000uF/1000uF. I thought the extra 1000uF to the first value gave more depth and soundstage as well as a little 'darker' but at the same time vivid sound. Above 2000uF was too much for me. Also I tried different power rating values. I though 100V is better that 50V or 63V. Again more vividness and dept in soundstage.
Tried a couple of different regulators also. Peters recomended National LM7808 was best.
The C916 cap. A few caps tried. Nichicon Muse was best. Here I also differ a little from Peters value. I thought 470uF/50V was best. In my system increasing the value from 47uf to 470uF brings richness, correct timber, bigger soundstage and more naturalness. But here bigger power rating wasn't better. 100V made the soundstage deeper but also made the bass sluggish and the transits more slow and lifeless.
The transformer. First I had a torroid 120V transformer (Trafox/muuntosähkö) changed that to the recommended 96VA Hammond transformer and finally changed that to Hammond 120VA (266P24) transformer. The Hammond 96VA was quite a bit better than the torroid transformer. Much more dynamic and clean, had snap and timber. However I felt all the time that I was missing some bass slam (someone did comment here that the "original" version was only a little bass shy) so I ordered the same transformer but with 120VA power rating. That did the trick. Also the fact that there is more bass (not just quantity) gave the sound much better soundstage dept, made voices, acoustic guitars ets. much more real. Without the bass power the instruments were more reflections of the real thing but with the more powerful transformer they have become quite real, have impact, dept, timber and also at the same time have a pleasant lushness that sounds superb.
I do see that the transformer choice is system dependent. I have a quite revealing full range system with the presens region quite prompt. Here the more powerful transformer was very nice but I can see that in a more bass heavy/a little less revealing system the 96VA transformer could the better choice.
And of course all these findings are valid in my system, my power cords, cables etc, YMMV. My system consists of VAC amps, Lessloss cables and Ascendo C8 speakers.
Just a little comment about the digi cable. I've tryed a bundle of different ones but Nirvana Audio's T-2 which I've used for quite a while was the one that sounded clearly the best - until I tried Lessloss. Lessloss is so organic and natural with a wall covering soundstage that I just kept smiling.
And it doesn't cost an arm and leg. Very recommended.A little bit about my preferences in music just to bring some back ground to what I try to listen to and accomplish with my tweaks. I am lucky enough to get to listen to live music weekly, almost daily. I play the guitar and some piano also. So I think I have some understanding how music should sound as apposite to being 'just hifi'. Secondly I prefer acoustic music. I like to listen to timber and naturalness of instruments and voices - even dynamics comes second.
If all this helps someone - great! =) But still a huge thanks to Peter for this opportunity!
I once compared this (then still very much under development) transport to the PS Audio's PerfectWave transport and though this DIY version was better. So far it's been a facinating and instructive journey. =)
Thanks Peter!
Oh... still a couple of things...
It's incredible how small things affect the sound. The combinations and possibilities are almost overwhelming. Like some designer once said, untill you've tried both too little an too much you won't know what's best. It’s hard to imagine that you could cover everything…. It just takes so much time.
But don’t skim even on the power supply wire (from regulators to caps and transport). I use quality power cable leads. Much better then the basic wire I first had.
BNC or RCA output? Depends on the connecting cable. I’ve got both connectors side by side to try out each cable. BNC isn’t necessarily the best, although to my experience it usually is.
Transport height has a clear affect also. Height from the shelf it lays on and also the height of the mechanism measuring from the transport base. With a revealing system everything really does have an affect! Usually the more height the more open and airy soundstage you get. Less height gives you more weight and richness/darkness to the sound. So you have to find a compromise where the sound has a balance of not being too thin and airy and not too being dark and muddy.
My transport sits on a 1,8cm stone plate, has brass pucks under its three feet and the feet's height can be adjusted on the fly as they are simply screws going through the transport base. The base is a 1,8 cm thick ‘gluewood’ piece (Strips of wood glued side by side and plated on each side with a sheet of veneer. Unfortunately I haven't hade the chance to try a copper base.) There’s a 1,2 cm gap between the stone plate and the wood base. And the height from the wood base to the transport metal sheet (where the mechanism feet anchor) is 3,4 cm. Two feet seem to be better that four feet and also not screwed on too tightly. Your preferences on these things could vary a lot, but the point is that until you've tried different heights/torque you don't know.
There are still some things I haven’t tried. For an example the base material can have a big affect on the sound. Copper must certainly make a difference, even to cap values etc. I’m very pleased with the Nichicon caps but then again I’ve never had any Black Gate caps to listen to. And also every change in one part can affect another aspect/value etc. So it could be a never ending story. You just have to stop somewhere when you are satisfied and enjoy the sound.
Have fun!
It's incredible how small things affect the sound. The combinations and possibilities are almost overwhelming. Like some designer once said, untill you've tried both too little an too much you won't know what's best. It’s hard to imagine that you could cover everything…. It just takes so much time.
But don’t skim even on the power supply wire (from regulators to caps and transport). I use quality power cable leads. Much better then the basic wire I first had.
BNC or RCA output? Depends on the connecting cable. I’ve got both connectors side by side to try out each cable. BNC isn’t necessarily the best, although to my experience it usually is.
Transport height has a clear affect also. Height from the shelf it lays on and also the height of the mechanism measuring from the transport base. With a revealing system everything really does have an affect! Usually the more height the more open and airy soundstage you get. Less height gives you more weight and richness/darkness to the sound. So you have to find a compromise where the sound has a balance of not being too thin and airy and not too being dark and muddy.
My transport sits on a 1,8cm stone plate, has brass pucks under its three feet and the feet's height can be adjusted on the fly as they are simply screws going through the transport base. The base is a 1,8 cm thick ‘gluewood’ piece (Strips of wood glued side by side and plated on each side with a sheet of veneer. Unfortunately I haven't hade the chance to try a copper base.) There’s a 1,2 cm gap between the stone plate and the wood base. And the height from the wood base to the transport metal sheet (where the mechanism feet anchor) is 3,4 cm. Two feet seem to be better that four feet and also not screwed on too tightly. Your preferences on these things could vary a lot, but the point is that until you've tried different heights/torque you don't know.
There are still some things I haven’t tried. For an example the base material can have a big affect on the sound. Copper must certainly make a difference, even to cap values etc. I’m very pleased with the Nichicon caps but then again I’ve never had any Black Gate caps to listen to. And also every change in one part can affect another aspect/value etc. So it could be a never ending story.
You just have to stop somewhere when you are satisfied and enjoy the sound.Have fun!
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Hi, has anyone investigated whether the Shiga operates better in complete darkness.
Just a theory but the CD is raised with this design, open to the light whereas most commercial players have the laser enclosed in the players casing.
I intend to put a lid on mine for no other reason than it can operate the TOC switch every time thus getting a fresh toc for every cd.
The by-product of this would be a dark environment for the laser to operate in.
Just a theory but the CD is raised with this design, open to the light whereas most commercial players have the laser enclosed in the players casing.
I intend to put a lid on mine for no other reason than it can operate the TOC switch every time thus getting a fresh toc for every cd.
The by-product of this would be a dark environment for the laser to operate in.
Hi Peter,
What is your technique to cut track...drilling?
Do you solder + onto the large pad near the JW906 label or onto the component itself?
Do you recommend separate PS for display board as well?
Thank you.
Try feeding the 5V line from a separate transformer. If that doesn't help, then it is possible that the regulator you are using is simply not suitable for Shigaclones...
Convert it to CT and wire as here:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/audio-sector/156187d1264974944-cd-transport-66.jpg
Thanks again, Peter. Been listening to the 120VA for a few hours and have to agree with jugi63. more lively, more bass than with either 48 or 96VA, at least in my system. I'm using elna caps but may try other recommendations from jugi63.
Hey Peter, I have an LM7805 and plan to duplicate the PS with separate transformer to power dig-out. you think this is reasonable approach? Thx.
I changed from oscon 47/16 to silmic ii 47/50.. Prefer silmic. I have nichicon FG and cerafine in psu and a Teflon tin foil 0.047uf in the c906. This combo goes great with Audio Note dac. I found the oscon were to hard in sound. Must say silmic becomes better after 50hourz. But still most noticeable are the famous c906 changes. I have a Duelund alexander 0.1uf..haven't tried it yet. But the csr Teflon has long burn in and i really like this cap.
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