Universal Power Supply PCB - Page 3

peranders · 28th November 2009, 09:51 PM

Peter, I see that the transformer has 230 VAC in. You have very short creepage distances. I can't see any 8 mm between ground and the mains.

Peter Daniel · 09:57 PM

Search the Forum Peranders, we've already discussed that issue, besides, it's wired for 115V.

PS: I'm really dissapointed with your input here. Since it's proto board, you can clearly see that the distance is no less than the pin spread on IEC inlet.

peranders · 28th November 2009, 10:08 PM

It is less. You have blank copper pads in between. It seems tight even for 115 V.

jleaman · 1st January 2010, 09:54 PM

Nice work on the chassis, good idea Peter, Question, does the transformer being in the same case cause any mechanical hum OR interference being that it is close to the psu board and enclosed in the same chassis as the psu board ?

jtktam · 27th January 2010, 04:47 PM

Peter,

I recently got a bunch of these from you.. Are they usable with my B1 buffer build? which section from the 3 section board do I use?

-joe

jtktam · 29th January 2010, 02:46 PM

Hi Peter,

Just another quick question about the 120R for the power supply example, is there any wattage requirement?

-joe

Peter Daniel · 5th February 2010, 06:03 AM

Yes, they will work fine with B1 buffer. If you are using original buffer schematic, then only positive supply section is needed. It would look similar to this, although you might use a different regulator type as well: Universal Power Supply PCB

cjkpkg · 08:57 PM

I see R9-R10 listed on the F5 amp BOM Excel spreadsheet...a 3W 2.2K. I presume this is a bleeder resistor that goes somewhere on the PSU board? I also presume that you would need a total of 4 for a symmetrical supply?

EDIT: I guess the BOM I am referencing is more of a "generic" PSU BOM and not for Peter's PSU board. That being said, is there a spot for a bleeder resistor on the universal PSU board? Is it absolutely necessary?

Peter Daniel · 11th February 2010, 04:12 PM

I never used those bleeder resistors in my amps. If you need one, you can attach it directly to cap pins from the bottom.

cjkpkg · 12th February 2010, 01:56 PM

Got it...I was looking at the spreadsheet you had referenced in one of the F5 threads...

Funny...I don't even have my aleph mini done yet and I am already ordering parts and planning the F5...

28th November 2009, 09:51 PM	#21
peranders Electrons are yellow and more is better! diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Göteborg, Sweden Blog Entries: 4	Peter, I see that the transformer has 230 VAC in. You have very short creepage distances. I can't see any 8 mm between ground and the mains. __________________ /Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me

28th November 2009, 09:54 PM	#22
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	Search the Forum Peranders, we've already discussed that issue, besides, it's wired for 115V. PS: I'm really dissapointed with your input here. Since it's proto board, you can clearly see that the distance is no less than the pin spread on IEC inlet. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC Last edited by Peter Daniel; 28th November 2009 at 09:57 PM.

28th November 2009, 10:08 PM	#23
peranders Electrons are yellow and more is better! diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Göteborg, Sweden Blog Entries: 4	It is less. You have blank copper pads in between. It seems tight even for 115 V. __________________ /Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me

1st January 2010, 09:54 PM	#24
jleaman diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Nanaimo	Nice work on the chassis, good idea Peter, Question, does the transformer being in the same case cause any mechanical hum OR interference being that it is close to the psu board and enclosed in the same chassis as the psu board ? __________________ Baby Danika, Born January 20th 1:54am.. http://itsparks.dyndns.orgMix a LittleUntangle&Opendns.org Perfect..

5th February 2010, 06:03 AM	#27
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	Yes, they will work fine with B1 buffer. If you are using original buffer schematic, then only positive supply section is needed. It would look similar to this, although you might use a different regulator type as well: Universal Power Supply PCB __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

27th January 2010, 04:47 PM	#25
jtktam diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Blog Entries: 14	Peter, I recently got a bunch of these from you.. Are they usable with my B1 buffer build? which section from the 3 section board do I use? -joe

29th January 2010, 02:46 PM	#26
jtktam diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Blog Entries: 14	Hi Peter, Just another quick question about the 120R for the power supply example, is there any wattage requirement? -joe

10th February 2010, 08:52 PM	#28
cjkpkg diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Roswell GA	I see R9-R10 listed on the F5 amp BOM Excel spreadsheet...a 3W 2.2K. I presume this is a bleeder resistor that goes somewhere on the PSU board? I also presume that you would need a total of 4 for a symmetrical supply? EDIT: I guess the BOM I am referencing is more of a "generic" PSU BOM and not for Peter's PSU board. That being said, is there a spot for a bleeder resistor on the universal PSU board? Is it absolutely necessary? Last edited by cjkpkg; 10th February 2010 at 08:57 PM.

11th February 2010, 04:12 PM	#29
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	I never used those bleeder resistors in my amps. If you need one, you can attach it directly to cap pins from the bottom. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

12th February 2010, 01:56 PM	#30
cjkpkg diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Roswell GA	Got it...I was looking at the spreadsheet you had referenced in one of the F5 threads... Funny...I don't even have my aleph mini done yet and I am already ordering parts and planning the F5...

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