Universal Power Supply PCB

[Peter Daniel]

Jensens would probably be the top grade option, although a bit expensive.
Nichicons KG Super Through would be my next choice.

For other board options, use regulators datasheet and use recommended components. Here's one such schematic from LM317 datasheet.

[vdi_nenna]

Peter or anyone,

Do the TO-247 rectifiers need isolation from the chassis?

thanks,

Vince

[fff0]

Hi Peter, what do you think of Epcos SIKOREL?

Hi Vince,,

I suggest you take a look at the datasheet, if the back its connected to any of the pins, cathode or anode, yes it needs to be isolated.

[Peter Daniel]

I don't have much experience with Sikorels. Used them only once in a PS and they seemed fine.

[fff0]

Thanks peter.

[Peter Daniel]

I'd like to present here an example how to implement those boards in a stand alone PS.

I like to use 2 x 3 aluminum tubing for all my projects now. It simplifies chassis building as the main body of an enclosure consist of a single tube section cut to the required size, the end panels are really optional.

To reduce the amount of external screws, I'm using sub-plate to mount regulator board. The LM317 is installed on a sub-plate as well, as attaching screws inside the tube would be vary hard.

Transformer is mounted on a proto board, with p2p wiring. Please note that the Earth terminal from power entry module is soldered to a copper foil underneath one of the stand offs to ground the chassis.

Additional Burns potentiometer is used to set the output between 9-13V

[Peter Daniel]

Such assembly slides into the tubing and I'm only using 4 screws to secure it (additional soft pad on top of transformer prevents any movement).

This particular PS is intended for use with field coil of Fertin driver.

One pair of binding posts is for batteries attachment (in case batteries are not use, additional capacitor can be installed there), the other for driver connection. The toggle switch disconnects power to the driver, the potentiometer allows fine tuning of voltage output.

[Peter Daniel]

A piece of hard foam can be used to cover the opening.

[sandbasser]

Peter -

Your work is brilliant. Very creative use of materials and parts.

If you wouldn't mind, I have a couple of questions...

1) why do you cut the square piece out of the middle of the board to mount the regulator? Aren't the small round holes in the middle of the resistor layouts for that???
2) do you make the board standoffs yourself??? or wwhere you you get them (p/n please) ???- they almost look like bronze flanged bushings.
3) finally is the brand of the large 4700 uF cap ???

Thanks,
- Ray

[Peter Daniel]

Ray, Thanks for the comments.

The round hole is too small for the screw head to go through, initially it was intended to improve air flow around resistor or heatsink, it can be also used as a mounting hole.

But now when you mentioned it, enlarging it would work fine. The cut out allows me to see better how regulator aligns on a mica pad, but it's not really critical.

The standoffs are indeed bronze flanged bushings, I bought them at local surplus outlet.

The cap is Roederstein (ROE); it's NOS but surprisingly good, in some applications better than BG.