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#411 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Thanks Peter, I think I'll do what you say for the testing side of things, but look at a soft start circuit for when it's put in a case.
By the way, my search for a proper soft start schematic is over - there's one in the Gainclone Power Supply thread in the National PDF file. I've just got to adapt the resistor values accordingly for my voltage, but I know how to do that. It is strange that my 300VA supply is blowing fuses when others have no problems. I can't think why it would do it, unless the windings in my torroid don't have sufficient resistance to limit the amount of current coming in. It's a Noratel torroid, brand new from Farnell. |
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#412 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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you need a T3A or T4A for a 300VA transformer.
But, this is not a close rated fuse like Nuuk and I recommend. If you want to use a close rated fuse then you must use a soft start. Carry on using the bulb tester for the time being. The amp will work with the bulb tester in place . The bulb will glow if you ask for too much output power. But, you still have the protection of the bulb while doing testing. You can fit a manual bypass switch across the bulb tester to allow full power to the mains transformer. But if this is inadvertently left closed it completely defeats the bulb tester function. Take care to label this bypass switch.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#414 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Yes, I built the bulb tester exactly as Nuuk describes on his site and then got confused with what the various switches did, so much so that when I first measured the bridge output I was only getting 1V !!
After scratching my head and thinking about it I started pressing the switches and lo and behold, 24V - obviously I had left the bypass switch turned off at first, hence the low Voltage reading. |
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#415 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#416 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#417 |
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diyAudio Member
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This is how I had Edcor transformer wired to convert unbalanced signal into balanced, to use with LM4780 in bridged mode.
http://www.edcorusa.com/products/tra...sm10k-10k.html
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#418 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Quote:
-ben |
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#419 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Ok, I'm a beginner.
What about the copper of a coaxial cable for ground bridge? I also found an anamel copper from a transformer. Is it better? CAT5 copper for R1 bridge is ok or standard awg wire is preferred? Thank you very much for your work and sorry for my very bad english. |
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#420 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burlington
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So... I could build a box with two unbalanced inputs, run across a couple of transformers to two balanced outputs and I'm off and running???
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Wherever you go there you are. |
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