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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I will post tomorrow more info how to wire single transformer.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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For UK Gaincloners, this Airlink transformer is a good substitute for the 300VA Piltron. Kensai (I believe) recommended Airlink on another thread. I received my Airlink toroid earlier this week and it seems a very solid unit. One offs are about £32 including delivery.
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#23 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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Quote:
Is this the right one, I only need one right? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=122-625 I will be looking forward to your instructions. gychang |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes, Avel Y236652 250VA 25V+25V Toroidal Transformer is right choice for 8ohm speakers.
If you don't mind spending a bit more, Avel Y236750 330VA 25V+25V is a good choice too.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WI.- near the Dells
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Hi Peter -
My boards just arrived about an hour ago. The quality is very impressive. Thank You again. How many questions do you want here on list vs. via PM? I already have several 'dumb newbee' ones myself. Bluto |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
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No problem with all the questions in here.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I usually use 26ga solid core wire for input signal and I never found a need for shielded cable. I normally don't even twist them, but it's a good idea anyway. For speaker connections I use 19ga stranded wire. See this table for American Wire Gauge Table: http://cc.msnscache.com/cache.aspx?q...b17&FORM=CVRE2
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
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Those are some tools you may find useful for wire insulation stripping:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
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By stereo version I mean the use of a single transformer powering both channels. You could still use two separate rectifiers boards, but depending on wiring it may produce hum in some systems, so I always stick with a single rectifier board when using one transformer.
For demonstration purpose, I will install all the boards inside 3 x 1.5" U-channel, 1.25" aluminum extrusion. For normal listening, this is enough to dissipate heat from the chips, and when things get hot, you can always attach it to larger aluminum panel. I will show a version with a potentiometer, and without, so stay tuned.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hello Peter,
Great thread. My buddy just ordered 2 3875 classic kits last week. I will be the builder. One kit for my studio monitors and one kit for his home stereo. Can't wait for the rest. I will be building 2 stereo versions. I also had a question about internal wiring of the inputs/outputs and passive pot. I use mogami 2549 mic cable it is OFC 22 gauge shielded. DC Resistance Inner Cond. 0.058W/m(0.018W/Ft) Shield 0.013Ohms/m(0.004Ohms/Ft ) Capacitance at 1kHz, 20°C K0 76pF/m(23pF/Ft) K1 11pF/m(3.4pF/Ft) I use this for all my interconnects and mic cable in my studio. Would this be ok/good to use for the input and output (and pot) wiring? Out, Robert p.s. you have amazing machining skills. |
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