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Old 8th September 2012, 11:48 PM   #1631
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The kit, in bridged configuration, will only work with balanced signal: positive goes to IN, negative goes to the other IN, ground connects to SG, speaker is connected between two OUTs. For unbalanced to balanced conversion you can use transformer: Commercial Gainclone kit- building instructions

For more info check also those links:

The most advanced GainClone amp yet
Commercial Gainclone kit- building instructions
Balanced Signal - Blue Room wiki
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Last edited by Peter Daniel; 9th September 2012 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 27th September 2012, 07:18 PM   #1632
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Default Ground wire on custom toroid

Hello, I just received my Toroidy shielded and encapsuled transformer, but where to connect the ground wire? to the chassis together with the ground from the board?


Kenneth
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Old 27th September 2012, 07:56 PM   #1633
Marra is offline Marra  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumOpus View Post
Hello, I just received my Toroidy shielded and encapsuled transformer, but where to connect the ground wire? to the chassis together with the ground from the board?


Kenneth

Correct.Thats how I did it anyway.No hum or other noises.And the earth from the IEC connector.
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Old 28th September 2012, 09:01 AM   #1634
AndrewT is online now AndrewT  Scotland
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Transformer Shield to the Chassis with a short link wire.
Do not take it back to the IEC socket.
The IEC socket's PE wire gets connected to chassis at the IEC socket.
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Old 25th October 2012, 11:39 PM   #1635
Kokanee is offline Kokanee  Mexico
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Smile Just getting started with enclosure

Hello Peter and all,

I will be building a 3875 Premium kit and a LM4780 Parallel kit, both using separate PS's inside one enclosure.

I have 3/8" thick x 10"L x 5"H aluminum front & back panels and side panels that are 3/8" thick x 6"L x 5"H. Inside ID's will be 9-1/4" W x 6"D.

I have 1/8" thick x 2"W x 8"L copper plate for attaching to the front and back aluminum panels, and have extra copper of the same dimension to solder between the front and back panels to act as a mounting plate and heat sink for the amp boards. The copper piece to be soldered can be soldered flat or vertical (ie: on the 1/8" edge).

Top and bottom of enclosure will be made of wood with some holes for ventilation.

Questions:

1) Adequate copper for heat sinking with the 3 pieces of copper, (remember 2 pieces of copper are attached to 3/8" aluminum plate).????

2) Can the rectifier boards be attached to the copper plate that the amp boards are attached to or is it better to attach to the aluminum side panels or to the bottom wood panel.

3) For grounding purposes can aluminum be used or do I need a steel ground post attached.

3a) If the steel ground post is needed can it be attached through the bottom wood or on the side aluminum panels or copper/aluminum on the front & back panels.

3b) Would it be better to attached a steel plate to the bottom wood to aid in grounding rather than 3 or 3a.

Thanks for the help

Myles
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Old 26th October 2012, 08:56 AM   #1636
AndrewT is online now AndrewT  Scotland
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steel.
Where does the need for steel come from?
Aluminium and even better copper are excellent conductors of electricity.
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Old 26th October 2012, 04:31 PM   #1637
Kokanee is offline Kokanee  Mexico
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Thanks Andrew,

Knew about copper as conducter, but was not sure about aluminium.

Andrew, Peter, or others, any comments about questions 1 & 2 above.

Regards,

Myles
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Old 27th October 2012, 08:52 AM   #1638
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copper to aluminium may develop corrosion in the interface.
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Old 28th October 2012, 02:06 AM   #1639
Kokanee is offline Kokanee  Mexico
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Andrew,

Thanks for the information about the corrosion.

Peter Daniels, maybe you can chime in as I know you have used copper attached to aluminum for heat sinking purposes on some of your amps.

Also Peter, could you comment on whether the reticfier board can be attached to a wood base, or would aluminum be better.

Thanks again,

Myles
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Old 8th November 2012, 10:48 AM   #1640
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powersupply kit connection images i required plz send it
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