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Old 21st June 2008, 01:30 PM   #141
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You do have a source selector though, otherwise how do you switch between sources?

If so, turn selector to turntable first and then switch off the CD

The thermistor will not help here, it's merely there to isolate circuit ground from chassis ground and the idea of using it came from First Watt amps.
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Old 21st June 2008, 02:18 PM   #142
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Jan,

try 300pF PS between Pin 7 & 8.
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Old 21st June 2008, 03:33 PM   #143
tangen is offline tangen  Norway
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Quote:
Originally posted by carawu
Jan,

try 300pF PS between Pin 7 & 8.
Thanks guys!

One more question to Carawu: forgive me my little knowledge, but what does PS and pin 7 and 8 stands for?

best wishes
jan ove
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Old 21st June 2008, 04:14 PM   #144
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PS could stand for polystyrene cap: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...22#post1516522
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Old 21st June 2008, 04:30 PM   #145
tangen is offline tangen  Norway
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
PS could stand for polystyrene cap: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...22#post1516522
Thanks again. I will try this as soon as I got some spare time My wife wants me to paint the fence in the garden :

best
jan ove
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Old 21st June 2008, 05:19 PM   #146
Nuuk is offline Nuuk  United Kingdom
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Quote:
I'm rather lazy, you see
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I will try this as soon as I got some spare time My wife wants me to paint the fence in the garden
Karma!
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Old 5th July 2008, 10:29 AM   #147
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Default thumper here

Peter,

Thanks for the direct, this is what I intend to do but with all four amplifiers on each side. One slight problem is getting hold of thermistor CL-60 - they are not sold here in the UK! Farnell will take the order but I have to then pay a premium ($30) for them ordering them from the states! So until I can get hold of some I will use your original method of connecting to the groung earth with a 10R resistor.

Alan
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Old 5th July 2008, 02:09 PM   #148
Vautrin is offline Vautrin  United States
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Thanks for this superb tutorial, Peter, but color me dense...

I can't figure out where R1 is (or goes). Is there a posted photograph showing either the wire, resistor, or cap soldered in place? I have four resistors on my board/s, can see the position for Rz(obel), and can see R1 in the diagram (Post #3).

I have a PSU question, too. I chose to power two amp boards in stereo config with one Avel 250VA 25V-25V toroid in a separate cabinet. Is it best to also house the rectifier board with the toroid? Or should I put it close to the amp boards as demonstrated here? What are the pros/cons of each?

Also, if I house the rectifier board with the toroid, how many wires do I need in my umbilical (at least four, of course)? I see your elegant Patek arrangement showing only four wires in two photos, whereas the example integrated amp in this tutorial shows two grounds to the star and four other wires to the boards.

Lastly: if I add two fast-blow fuses (for initial testing), do I still need the light bulb? (I've tested the PSU with the LED. It glows. Nothing smokes.)


David Barnett in SW FL
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Old 5th July 2008, 02:13 PM   #149
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Where would be those two fast blow fuses installed?
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Old 5th July 2008, 02:15 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vautrin
I can't figure out where R1 is (or goes). Is there a posted photograph showing either the wire, resistor, or cap soldered in place?
R1 is the first ressitor on the left in this picture: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...amp=1210697477
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