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Audio Sector Kits & PC boards from AudioSector |
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#101 |
diyAudio Member
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The bottom line is that I offer whatever I use myself. All the kits and projects are extention of the circuits I initially built/designed for my personal use. If something doesn't work as expected, you won't see me promoting it.
The circuits for bass/treble controls are usually popular with lower end systems. While you can adjust frequency response to your preference, other aspects of reproduced music usually suffer and the sound becomes less convincing. For me it's a trade off that is hard to accept. So even in a system that I presently use while working on my new workshop, tone controls are always off ![]() For me, it's the 'purity' of the sound that matters the most, with tone control, that 'purity' is (usually) lost.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#102 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Hi Peter,
I have recently completed one of your premium kits (LM3875). I have used 2 transformers (120VA, 18V) and 2 rectifier boards in the same case. I initially intended to make 2 monobloc's but had a last minute change of plan. I connected 4 wires between each of the rectifier and amplifier boards (V-,PG-,PG+,V+) and then the L+R CHG connections to the chassis earth point with a 10ohm resistor on each. I wanted to try and keep both channels seperate, but this is causing a low hum. I have tried it with and without the resistors, and I get more hum without them. I am also getting some distortion in the low frequency range. Is there any reason why I can't use the same set up as you have used (page 4 of this thread), connecting both channels together with 14ga solid copper wire, or will it have to be modified in some way? Regards, Chris. |
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#103 |
diyAudio Member
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What happens if there's no connection between CHG and chassis earth point?
If it helps, you could use the same set up as on page 4 of this thread, connect grounds from both rectifier boards there and from here to earth point on a chassis.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#104 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WI.- near the Dells
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Hi John -
It's just another 'newbee' question. 'We' don't understand this stuff. The simple explanation that it adds unneeded complexity to signal path and purity is sacrificed as a result is as far as most of our knowledge gets us but is adequate to put question to rest. That we now know design is such that attempting to add such is not possible with this design stops 'us' from attempting something that not only would not work but would cause damage trying. We hopefully learn the why's later. Thanks Peter - Bluto |
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#105 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kingston WA>
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Quote:
Thats not at all what he said. You may want to re-read the prior post. If you'd like to add tone controls have a look around the ESP site. 7/10 |
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#106 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Hong Kong
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Hi Peter,
1) Noticed your suggestion on the value of snubber is 0.1ohm/ 3.3nF. Could I use it on the 22,000 uF Panasonic TS that I already have on hand? (There is another set out there with value of 1ohm/ 100nF, do they both yield similar results?) 2) The 22,000 uF caps will be shared by three chips. Since I have some extra 1,000 uF FC, is there any merit if I also use them right near each chip? 3) For I/P cap, I wondered if 4.7 uF BG NP would be a better choice than for instance, Panasonic polypropelene or Auricap, etc.? Thanks for your advice~! CFT |
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#107 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hello Peter,
I have some caddock MK132 22k resistors, would these be ok for feedback resistors? Or do I need the 22.1k resistor? Also I am thinking of ordered Antek brand 300VA 22+22 toroid transformers are these any good? Or should I get the 400VA 22+22 version? Does this brand suck? Thank You, Robert p.s. peter, (I think) you sent us the blue gold plated boards (unless all the boards are blue), thank you for the upgrade (classic kits were ordered). |
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#108 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Also,
I have some 330pf 50V polystyrene caps for RF blocking if needed, they are big(5mm X 12MM). How do you mount the between pins 7 and 8? If needed will the big size cause other problems? Thank You Again. Out Here, Robert |
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#109 | |||
diyAudio Member
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![]() Quote:
2 You may try adding small caps directly at the chips and the overall effect can be only assessed when listening to both setups (with small caps and without). 3 BG N 4.7/50 (or 10/50) is my first choice for coupling applications. The only other cap that I prefer is teflon V-Cap. BG N is sensitive to orientation; I chose long pin for output. Quote:
![]() I'm not familiar with Anteks, but they look good on pictures. If there is not much difference in price, 400VA is proabably a better choice. All PCBs are blue now. If I'm out of stock in tin plated, gold plated is supplied instead. Quote:
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#110 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Peter,
Do you think a 400VA 25+25 would be even better than a 400VA 22+22 transformer? I have read as much as I can on transformers here. I was thinking there would be less current inrush (turn on thumping,less problems with lower than 8ohm loads) with a 22v vs a 25v...what is your experience? Thank You, Robert |
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