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#1011 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes, all pots are wired the same, most of them have 3 pins though.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1012 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes, unblanaced signal is fine with stereo or parallel configuration. Also, 8hm load is perfectly fine here, as it's easier to drive.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1013 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chatham ON
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Peter, thank you for your patience. Hopefully this will be my last question regarding this.
If running in parallel: 1) install jumper, R8, and R9 2)Regarding inputs. Being there is now a jumper, do I use just the Red IN and associated SG or do I split the positive side between both IN's and SG between both SG's? 3)Red OUT goes to + side of speaker and OG to - side of speaker? |
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#1014 |
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diyAudio Member
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When in parallel, install jumper, R8, R9, Do not install R0.
Use red IN and any of SG's (as they are connected anyway). For output, red OUT (//) and OG for output ground.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1015 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chatham ON
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Ok, got it...Thanks
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#1016 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
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Hello, I've been reading this thread as well as this tutorial and can't seem to figure out what to solder to what.
Right now I have both reds soldered together and both blacks solders together as well. I don't want to risk damaging these transformers so if someone could clarify this for me please it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a picture.
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#1017 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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That transformer wont work. You have 22V secondary and 220V secondary. Wont work. If you had 22V and 22V that would be fine and you would tie the middle blue/green together to get a 0V for power ground.
Uriah
__________________
You can purchase LDRs anytime to build a standard LDR attenuator or to build my new LDR Attenuator "A Lighter Note". Email me. diyldr@gmail.com |
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#1018 |
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diyAudio Member
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Are you sure it's not a typo? Such secondaries configuration is rather strange.
Don't tie secondaries together but use them separately with my kits. Anyway, connect primaries in parallel (reds together and blacks together) and measure secondaries first.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#1019 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
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I got 22.3V on the secondaries, most definitely a typo in that image.
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#1020 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chatham ON
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I have both boards built. One has a dc offset of 118mv and the other 0.1mv. The second one has no output but the chip does get hot. Any advice would be appreciated.
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