Technics SL-1600mk2 Tonearm Bearing Adjustment

[philibuster]

Hey,
I've got a new-to-me Technics SL-1600mk2 (like 1200, but with suspended platter and tonearm and fully automatic), and while setting it up and adjusting it, I found that the tonearm had a bit of play in the top bearing of the gimbal mechanism. I know that to adjust this you need to unscrew the outer locking ring and then the bearing pin can be adjusted, but I couldn't get that outer ring to budge.

I was just using some screwdrivers to try to twist it by pushing on both sides of the locking ring. I oiled it last night, and I'll check it later today, but it doesn't seem like it's going to go.

Should I be doing something else? Is there a special tool that one should use to adjust these things? Like some kind of a split flat-bladed screwdriver? Thanks for your help.

[Panicos K]

You could look and find a ''special'',blade screwdriver with resessed (cut) center.This will help toy have a tight grip on the outer locking nut without touching the center screw.It should be easy to find it in a good tool shop.

[philibuster]

Are you referring to the security bits? like these?

I don't think they have them locally, but I will look. Thanks.

[Panicos K]

philibuster,yes.one of those will be the correct size for the locking nut.Good luck with your search.

[Netlist]

Not wanting to spoil the fun, but simply put: you can't adjust anything on the bearings.
Either the arm is fine or you'll end up replacing it.
Let us know in case you ultimately found a way to fix it.

/Hugo

[sreten]

Originally posted by Netlist
Not wanting to spoil the fun, but simply put: you can't adjust anything on the bearings.
/Hugo

Not true.
Back off locking nut with needle nosed pliers held apart.
I've done several arms this way.

/sreten.

[Netlist]

What I meant is that since the bearing most likely has clearance, it might miss one or more balls. Tightening the bearing will not remedy this. I’ve come across many arms like that in 1210’s. (Reckless DJ’s ) So, you are correct if the arm has no ‘history’ but even then I never managed to get it into specs like a new one. Since my last attempt many moons ago, I simply replace them.

/Hugo

[philibuster]

I suppose that makes sense, because how could you get clearance in the bearing without some deformation of it or its opposite pair? Good thing the tonearms are cheap (~60).

For now, it's only a hair of movement, but I'll leave it where it is. I just don't want to screw it up even more.

[Harderror]

Originally posted by Netlist
What I meant is that since the bearing most likely has clearance, it might miss one or more balls. Tightening the bearing will not remedy this. I’ve come across many arms like that in 1210’s. (Reckless DJ’s ) So, you are correct if the arm has no ‘history’ but even then I never managed to get it into specs like a new one. Since my last attempt many moons ago, I simply replace them.

/Hugo

Actually, there are no balls. It is a needle bearing. I adjusted mine on my old 1300. Didn't do much good. This is a terribly inferior arm. If you feel adventurous and simply insist on a technics arm. I would put a new 1200 arm on the deck. you will lose any auto functions (if this deck has them) but you will be far more satisfied with this arm. When setting this arm up, remember a high compliance cart is not particularly good for it. Resonant frequency will mismatch and tracking will be quite poor (relatively speaking). Good luck with it! If you feel really adventurous, try doing what I have done wiht my 1200 and put a real audiophile grade arm on it. I posted on here with photos. 1200 MKII with SME IIIs arm.

Tom

[Netlist]

But aren't the SL1200mkII and SL1600mkII equipped with the same arm? (Apart from manual/automatic)
Indeed very different than the SL1300 arm.
Have to check again but IIRC they have ball bearings.

/Hugo