SP10 mod plinth a la Kaneta- ideas?

[Shaun]

I'm having crazy dreams of transplanting the SP10 Mk11 motor and platter into an ultra-modern plinth of the X- or T-shaped variety.

My greatest fear is destroying the synergy of the original design and ending up with something so-so. So, I'm begging ideas from the Collective Analogue Brain. My preference is to use a one-piece material such as acrylic or corian (as opposed to constrained layers).

So, what do you think of the:

a) shape
b) material
c) solid or layered
d) good/bad idea anyway
e) shielding of motor wires
f) mass of the plinth
g) suspension (yes/no)

Any advice much appreciated.

[sreten]

Hi,

Your best bet is IMO to knock up a copy of the obsidain plinth, polished slate ?

http://www.vinylengine.com/library_m...ted_model=SP10



/sreten.

[Shaun]

Well, I'm fortunate to have 2 of these gems. The first SP10 is mounted in a plinth made of plywood and MDF laminations. It's quite solid and I estimate sufficiently massive.

Kaneta replaced the metal chassis and electronics (Kaneta SP10) with alternating solid wood laminations. His final form factor was a conventional square plinth. I want to do something similar, but more stylish (excluding replacing the electronics).

[brianco]

Originally posted by Shaun
Well, I'm fortunate to have 2 of these gems. The first SP10 is mounted in a plinth made of plywood and MDF laminations. It's quite solid and I estimate sufficiently massive.



Kaneta replaced the metal chassis and electronics (Kaneta SP10) with alternating solid wood laminations. His final form factor was a conventional square plinth. I want to do something similar, but more stylish (excluding replacing the electronics).

I also have two of these great TTs. One is fully modded in a late all obsidian plinth. And I am trying to get the seconfd returned to me from London where it is on loan. That one is on a BBC board with all the cuing gear, nasty arm and speed controls mounted alongside the TT proper.

This second TT I will try in a Kaneta plinth, though I will try and follow the external shape of the obsidian plinth. I intend using beech wood block (from the cut-outs for sink and hob from a new kitchen - = free!). But I will transfer the boards from the TT to inside the large PS case which comes with these ex-broadcasting decks. IF this is a really worthwhile exercise there will be an obsidian plinth for sale in the classifieds as I will repeat the exercise with the other deck!

The point of my post is to say that I think that it is very necessary to remove the boards to an external case. This can be joined by a trunk of shielded shielded pairs, all in an external shield grounded at the PS end.

Good luck with your project.

[Shaun]

Originally posted by brianco
But I will transfer the boards from the TT to inside the large PS case

What worries me about remote-mounting the driver boards is the EMI created by the motor wires. Perhaps this should be made of heavily screened multi-way cable, but how effective would that be?

[brianco]

The boards had already been moved off-board to the PS case when I bought the TT. There is absolutly no hum, and the background noise level is as low as I have ever (not) heard. Certainly MUCH lower than on a previous totally normal SP10 (NOT the "P" version)
This has been achieved by the use of a 12 (each shielded) pair Vanne Damm LC-OFC cable. It is attached to the motor via a tag board and to the PS by a computer plug&socket. The earth shields are taken via a ground rail to a single poit on the motor chassis. I will try to borrow a digital camera and post some pix.

Regarding the plinth, I believe that if you were to run the motor wires to a computer socket at the rear of the plinth you would keep the integrity of the Kaneta design-concept: to leave room for the boards within the plinth would severly compromise that concept and probably all you would have would be a decent heavyweight plinth. When I get to it that is what I intend doing.

Best luck.

[Shaun]

Originally posted by brianco
Dont Panic!.

Well, it's good to know that it's been done successfully before. Pics would be nice. What is the approximate length of the interconnecting cable?

Edit:

PS: interference would not be detectable as "hum" (a term usually associated with 100Hz/120Hz audible interference), but rather at whatever frequency that the motor drive signal is running at.