Has anyone modified their SL-1200Mk2 plinths?

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SL-1200Mk2 arm modifications, feet and power supplies have been much discussed, but what about the plinth? Is it possible to improve on it (without building a completely new one)?

I have both the version with a Pocan layer between the top-plate and rubber base, and the earlier version without Pocan.

Thoughts/experiences?
 
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I tried with very thin sheet of felt between the top/damper/rubber-base, no practical difference.
What it responds well to, is a solid(heavy) shelf, I used a 1"+ marble-plate, wich rested on many small rubber-feet.

Best/cheapest/simplest upgrade/change; a different headshell.
Next, internal arm-cabling, + external. If you don't go for a full arm-replacement....

Arne K
 
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Perhaps some damping material inside the top-plate (the motor side) would make a difference?
I would like to point out that I'm not unhappy with the performance of the TT, but if it can be bettered... ;)

I have Isonoe feet and an SME 3009/S2 Improved (stock SME RCA cables) and fluid damper on the non-pocan SL-120Mk2. Definately an improvement over the stock arm/feet.
I'm using a Technics headshell, though. I've always thought they were pretty decent?

The plinth with pocan is sitting armless at the moment, but since I already have the KAB fluid damper, I'll go for the stock arm. I have thought a lot about rewiring, though, and I'm eagerly awaiting for the outcome of KAB's rewire project.

I'm not too tempted to go the Origin Live route, since It's so unflexible, and the OL armboard cost the same as a new Technics arm.
 
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You will find a better (and cheaper) all aluminium armboard on ebay, do a search. A british guy, makes a lot of different arm-mounts, and can do custom-jobs.
I did a Cardas-arm-wire upgrade myself, a decent upgrade for the stock arm.
About headshells, they can do half the differece as a complete arm-change...! (and some good-ones are rare & expensive).

Arne K
 
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