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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Australia
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Thanks for the upload. Immensely useful!
__________________
jitter critter. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver
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I just rebuilt my Valhalla power supply. Usually the ps doesn't die completely. As long as the motor will turn even weakly then the board is generally intact and just producing under voltage. The output voltage is on the negative end of the 47uF capacitor that is lying parallel to the length of the board. The factory sets it at 85V AC but the motor run quieter at less than that according to the technicians at Linn. I set mine about 80 V. The HV reading you get off the positive terminal of the bridge rectifer should be about 320V DC. The first point to check Vdd is at the 220uF capacitor. It is usually around 10 V. The most common things to go on the board are the filter caps for the power supply and the output coupling cap which are 47uF/250V and all the electrolytic signal coupling and decoupling capacitors. I believe there are about five of them. They are either 22uF or 1uF. I replaced mine with tantalums @ 25V rating. The other item that sometimes goes is the surge protector. It is low value resistor. I believe it is about 27 ohms. The other items that always look damaged but are usually OK are the power resistors which are the voltage dividers for the low voltage supply. They get pretty hot. They are constantly dissipating about 1.7 watts. They should be 15K. The only thing gone on my board were the capacitors. I was up and running again in no time.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Victoria, B.C.
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Great post tkwou, very informative. Are the voltages you give no-load, or are they with the motor running?
Jeff |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver
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The output voltages are with no load.
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