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Old 1st September 2006, 10:29 AM   #11
jugi63 is offline jugi63  Finland
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Helsinki
Originally posted by SisterOfMercy

That must sound dead
- so true!
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Old 1st September 2006, 05:31 PM   #12
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Berlin Germany
Hello jugi63,

Nice job on the arm, but I'd need a little more than just one pic to give you some advice on how to improve upon it. Any problems you have/had with it? Did you use maple for the base cylinder and armwand?



@SunRa: It's not a Scheu designed arm... ;-)
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Old 1st September 2006, 06:04 PM   #13
dcf is offline dcf  Germany
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sölden/Germany

you are absolutely right - no SCHEU at all


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Old 2nd September 2006, 05:41 AM   #14
jugi63 is offline jugi63  Finland
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Helsinki
Hi Frank! Thanks for answering..

Thanks also for the inspiration!
I'm amazed of the sound even now. So clear and musical! The sound of instruments and especially the resonance of string instruments are so much more authentic!

With the arm everything is basicaly pretty clear but the function its self isn't quite as good (You are right - no easy task). The tonearm tends to wobble from side to side if lowered to where I think if should be. The gap between the magnets is now some 3 mm. Any lower and it flips from side to side. Although the arm sounds suprisingly good even now, I suppose the gap should be about 1mm?

So would this be a defect of the hole in the magnet not being exactly in the center? The magnet hole is spark drilled at a local firm, so it should be fairly well centered. Or also maybe the antiskating disturbes the ballance - a too strong line? 23kg pull, 0.35mm thick, I think it was.. (not home right now).

The wood of the arm wand is alder, the other wooden parts are beech. After taking the picture I added a small weight along the underside of the wand to rise the effective mass a little to better suite the Shelter 501 II cart. Also I'm thinking of soaking the wand in epoxy to further resist resonancies. Worth it?

If I can't get the magnets close enough to each other, I'll probably save up to buy a Scheu Cantus or Classic - only I'm also thinking that maybe the version I already have may sound better than the Classic mkII at least?

Also I apreciate the fact that this is Your patent and profesion, so would you rather discuss (asuming you will discuss) this in private?

- Jugi
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Old 2nd September 2006, 04:36 PM   #15
SunRa is offline SunRa  Romania
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Romania
@SunRa: It's not a Scheu designed arm... ;-)
Sorry I meant schroeder... it looks pretty similar to the last schroeder, the one reviewed by 6moons
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Old 2nd September 2006, 05:50 PM   #16
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Join Date: Jun 2006
the turntable is magnifico and tha tonearm is one of my dream

photo please
great job
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Old 2nd September 2006, 06:12 PM   #17
jazzbee is offline jazzbee  United Kingdom
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: UK
Looks like a Pottery Machine :P

Good work
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Old 3rd September 2006, 01:10 PM   #18
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Berlin Germany
Hello Jugi,
Just send me a private mail after tuesday and I'll tell you what makes the arm flip either side when closing the gap..., but it has nothing to do with the antiskating - and the thread diameter is in the ballpark :-).
Soaking the armwand in epoxy isn't necessarily going to make it less resonant, it'll just change the res.-distribution.


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Old 19th November 2006, 01:30 PM   #19
Fomob is offline Fomob  United States
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Very nice looking table. I am curious about the clamp. Where di you source the record clamp or did you make that?
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Old 19th November 2006, 02:10 PM   #20
KBK is offline KBK  Canada
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: The Wilds Of Canada
Consider 'skinning' the arm wand, like an egg. This will work wonders. Long story.

If you have multiple wands, that is. To test each type out, or at least, that way you can reverse the situation if you don't like it.

Try the artist's brand "tri-art" brand 'topcoat', a watered down, ultra thin layer. (A highly damping but ultra fast hard and flexable acrylic-urethane mix-same base resin as BMW's vehicle topcoat, I believe.)

The best way to do it, is to thin the topcoat with distilled water, about 4:1-5:1, stir thoroughly.

Tape off the parts that need be clean for screwing or mating purposes (), and then dip thoroughly...and shake off the excess. Sounds rude, but this is likely a path to getting the resonance out of the armwand. The dipping and then the shaking off will create a layer that is even in thickness. Or, dip and then wash off (use a lint free cloth, go fast, this stuff gets sticky very fast). Let dry, maybe do another. The slight soaking into the wood from a few dippings, will do the trick. Ultra thins lead to the highest level of musical pleasure.

Same treatment for the rest of the wood.

It will take up to 6 months to fully cure the topcoat. Some say two years later, it is still hardening. Viagra for wood that needs permanent hardening. It has even been used to coat entire log cabins (soaking of all logs-massive wood!-before the erection stage)
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan. Sometimes the claims aren't extraordinary. Sometimes the weakness of men's minds are the culprit. Mass mentality has nothing to do with obviousness or truths.
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