Mayware / JH Labs tonearm problem

[Stanislav]

I was using a Grace 727 Gyro-master when I noticed that the rubber O-ring at the front of the counterweight had developed several cracks and had literally disintegrated.

So I replaced the Grace with my spare JH Labs formula 4 tonearm, and then drama: noticed that there was some play between the arm tube and the hub, both in the vertical and the horizontal plane.

Is this normal, I wouldn't think so, but decided to ask the people who have more experience with this arm.

Also what can I do to rectify this issue if it is indeed a problem

Thanks

Stan

P.S. Searched the forum for ready made answers, but no luck...

 

[sreten]

Hi,

The Mayware Formula 4 is a unipivot, this means by definition
it will swing horizontally and vertically around the central hub.

As it has as single bearing point "play" should not be possible.

If the arm tube is loose in its mounting, time for the Araldite.

/sreten.

 

[Stanislav]

Thank you Sreten,

that's what I wanted to hear - a reafirming opinion that I won't do anything silly if I attempted to glue the arm tube to the hub.

I was thinking of using gel super glue BTW.

Cheers

Stan

 

[sreten]

Hi,

I severely recommend you steer clear of any cyanoacrylate adhesive.

For permanent connection use 1 hour two part epoxy.

For semi-permanent connection use screw locking compound.

If you go the latter route you can also use it on the headshell
when you've got it all aligned, for an improvement in control.

/sreten.

 

[Stanislav]

What a timely response, thank you mate, you probably saved me a lot of future headaches.

maybe I'll try the semi-permanent option first, not sure how would I push the epoxy into the tiny gap between the tube and the hub.

Cheers

Stan

 

[sreten]

Hi,

Having gone the permanent route with an MF4 arm shoehorned into
a Philips 212, you take the tube out, apply epoxy and reassemble.

With the screw locking compound you should be fine simply
loosening the locking screw, apply compound, retighten.

/sreten.

 

[Stanislav]

OK, that's something I wasn't sure about - that I can dis-assemble the arm at the hub.

I looked carefully inside the hub with a magnifying glass and could not see a locking screw, so was wondering how can I take it apart. I'll try again, there must be a way, maybe that screw is well hidden somewhere.

I'll report on my progress or ask another question when in trouble.

Cheers

Stan

 

[sreten]

Hi,

From what I remember the screw is accessable from the bottom
of the hub. Or maybe from the top after removing the dome ?

/sreten.

 

[MosfetOwner]

If you need a manual for the tonearm, they are available on the Vinyl Engine website (www.vinylengine.com) for the Mayware version of the Formula 4. It's essentially identical to the JH version - they were built for JH Labs by a Japanese firm, who supplied them on an OEM basis to Sonus in the USA (JH were distributors for Sonus cartridges in Australia), and Mayware in the UK. I've checked the Mayware manual out, and it's identical to the manual which JH supplied with my old JH Formula 4, apart from the brand name, that is! It may have even been supplied to other firms, as well, but JH, Mayware, and Sonus are the only ones I know of. Chances are they were sold in Japan under another brand, though.

 

[Lunatic Fringe]

I am trying to fix my JH. First perhaps my version of what I remember of the JH. Mayware battle, because it was. I was a Sonus Rep at the time. JH contracted with a Japanese company for manufacture of their design. Shortly after Mayware hits the market with a knock off. Obviously an almost exact copy made by the same manufacturer. But JH had the plexi cap and the bucket w/bb's for anti-skate. Mayware had the metal cap and the weighted lever system.

Somehow JH lost the lawsuite and had to pull theirs. I said I lost my sample and thus couldn't return it. Plus there were already a few shipments in stores. So some where already out in the market.

Anyway, my tube got bent right at the hub. I am thinking of replacing it with perhaps carbon fiber? Any suggestions or possible sources for tubing?

Thanks

Oh it will eventually be monted on an Empire 398 when I get it rebuilt with new base design.

 

[Jonathan Bright]

Greetings fellow "Diggers" et al. Glad to see JH uses around.

Hi Stanislav.......Just a couple of things. Re;"screw locking compound" Here in Oz there is a range of strengths available. The brand name is "Loctite" and I've seen a display with about 4 or more different strengths for different applications; all explained on the display. This was at a specialist fastening store that was big on nuts and bolts and not much else. Bunnings may not carry the same range, but try anyway. (BTW we called our first child Stanislav or "Stan" for the first nine months of its existence until it was born and then changed it to Gabrielle, for obvious reasons)

Hi Lunatic Fringe, Thanks for the back ground on the JH/Mayware issue. I'd always thought the JH came first but hadn't heard an authoritive opinion. The Mayware did have a lower perspex section from memory.

BTW I also own a Keith Monks mercury contact uni pivot and if you look inside the JH pivot area there a four wells in the black plastic base that look like they could be used to hold mercury and the leads could be done away with at that point. I have sometimes wondered if that was the long term plan.

 

[sreten]

Anyway, my tube got bent right at the hub. I am thinking of replacing it with perhaps carbon fiber? Any suggestions or possible sources for tubing?

Hi,

Try an expensive kite shop. I beleive they have some extremely hi-tech spars.

/sreten.

 

[fergs1]

also archery shops for cabon fibre arrow blanks