Hi,
I acquired an sme 3009 at a decent price - below 100$ - which had parts missing.
Parts are there now, but the armtube was a bit scracthed up.
Tried to polish using 000 steelwool and # 800 and 1000 sandpaper and brasso.
Most of the scratches are gone now, but where the severer ones were I worked down to the original metal.
Is it advisable to repair using a small chromeplating kit like this one:
http://www.caswellcanada.ca/products.asp?code1=PNPCC28&gosearch.x=17&gosearch.y=8
and do I have to take the old plating right off or can I just plate over it?
Thanks for any help in advance.
I acquired an sme 3009 at a decent price - below 100$ - which had parts missing.
Parts are there now, but the armtube was a bit scracthed up.
Tried to polish using 000 steelwool and # 800 and 1000 sandpaper and brasso.
Most of the scratches are gone now, but where the severer ones were I worked down to the original metal.
Is it advisable to repair using a small chromeplating kit like this one:
http://www.caswellcanada.ca/products.asp?code1=PNPCC28&gosearch.x=17&gosearch.y=8
and do I have to take the old plating right off or can I just plate over it?
Thanks for any help in advance.
Hi phn,
the arm is aluminum, and therefore anodized - as I found out.
I removed the old anodizing, polished the arm (after removing the wiring and the cartridge plug in) and will send it now to an anodizing shop here in canada (alberta).
Sending it to SME would have involved major layout of non budget funds. Just check what SME charges for an rca converter kit - over 100 pound sterling. Same thing from germany - 33 euros.
Thanks anyway for the reply.
the arm is aluminum, and therefore anodized - as I found out.
I removed the old anodizing, polished the arm (after removing the wiring and the cartridge plug in) and will send it now to an anodizing shop here in canada (alberta).
Sending it to SME would have involved major layout of non budget funds. Just check what SME charges for an rca converter kit - over 100 pound sterling. Same thing from germany - 33 euros.
Thanks anyway for the reply.
You are right, it is high gloss, but it was definetely some layer on top of
the original aluminum - took quite some time to remove it.
I am down to the original aluminum now, and have it polished just nicely.
I am considering just applying urethane lacquer (spray).
Had done this to a labelled frontplate and it lasted forever - even scratch resistant.
the original aluminum - took quite some time to remove it.
I am down to the original aluminum now, and have it polished just nicely.
I am considering just applying urethane lacquer (spray).
Had done this to a labelled frontplate and it lasted forever - even scratch resistant.
Repair chrome plating
Hi audiokraut
That SME arm is polished, lacquered aluminium - no anodising, like phn said. I have a 3012 with a very minor mark left by the armrest clip.
Anyway, imho you should have started cleaning with 3M waterpaper (wet or dry) at about 600grit, them move to 800, 1000 and 1200grit. Then, if there is a hobby or craft shop near you, get some Japanese-made Tamiya finishing abrasives. These come in small cellophane packs with grit grades from 1200 to 2000.
Be sure to get only 3M waterpapers for the coarser work. I found some other brands for some reason or other, embed grit into the job while sanding.
The last step would be to use a fine polishing paste. Mine comes in a little blue plastic box and is sold also by hobby shops or by agents for Proxxon tools. This stuff is superb and will give your arm a mirror finish.
bulgin
Hi audiokraut
That SME arm is polished, lacquered aluminium - no anodising, like phn said. I have a 3012 with a very minor mark left by the armrest clip.
Anyway, imho you should have started cleaning with 3M waterpaper (wet or dry) at about 600grit, them move to 800, 1000 and 1200grit. Then, if there is a hobby or craft shop near you, get some Japanese-made Tamiya finishing abrasives. These come in small cellophane packs with grit grades from 1200 to 2000.
Be sure to get only 3M waterpapers for the coarser work. I found some other brands for some reason or other, embed grit into the job while sanding.
The last step would be to use a fine polishing paste. Mine comes in a little blue plastic box and is sold also by hobby shops or by agents for Proxxon tools. This stuff is superb and will give your arm a mirror finish.
bulgin
cleanup of aluminum arm
You might consider a buffing wheel and either tripoli or white rouge, using a soft fabric 6" wheel and a fairly light touch, you should be able to buff out ALL scratches to a mirror bright finish... then a quick wipe with alcohol or MEK to remove waxes and spray lacquer will be MUCh cheaper and look as good or better than chrome plate... a not so trivial job on aluminum anyway.
auplater
You might consider a buffing wheel and either tripoli or white rouge, using a soft fabric 6" wheel and a fairly light touch, you should be able to buff out ALL scratches to a mirror bright finish... then a quick wipe with alcohol or MEK to remove waxes and spray lacquer will be MUCh cheaper and look as good or better than chrome plate... a not so trivial job on aluminum anyway.
auplater
Thanks, I have tried to spray laquer it, but so far using commercial available spraycans I have not succeeded in a decent job. The volume the spraycans put out is s mply way too high and not contollable.
But - varnish remover and then I will try again.
Any special varnish/lacquer recommendation? Tried urethan and tremclad clear for now.
But - varnish remover and then I will try again.
Any special varnish/lacquer recommendation? Tried urethan and tremclad clear for now.
spray lacquer
Spray lacquer should work if you don't try to cover the surface in one coat. Multiple coats with partial coverage allowing partial drying between them should work. It can be hard to prevent sags and runs on highly polished metallic surfaces... the initial partial coat helps to "anchor" subsequent coatings that "fill in" and develop a smooth surface.
The trick is to keep the nozzle far enough away to avoid an over- application and "orange peel".
There are also dip lacquers that might also work. Hope this helps.
auplater
Spray lacquer should work if you don't try to cover the surface in one coat. Multiple coats with partial coverage allowing partial drying between them should work. It can be hard to prevent sags and runs on highly polished metallic surfaces... the initial partial coat helps to "anchor" subsequent coatings that "fill in" and develop a smooth surface.
The trick is to keep the nozzle far enough away to avoid an over- application and "orange peel".
There are also dip lacquers that might also work. Hope this helps.
auplater
Coating
... or you could send it to me and I'd gold plate it..
<--- cheap attempt at earning a buck.... (or copper, nickel, silver.. anything but chrome.. nasty process)
wear could be a problem, as was pointed out, but a tonearm shouldn't see too much of that.
I've had pretty good luck with Krylon.. and even the el-cheapo $.99 cans from Lowes / Home depot / your standard home store....
I used to use a water based dip lacquer on brass plated coat hangers that produced a durable protective coating, but that was 20 years ago... I'm sure an internet search could turn up some candidates
auplater
... or you could send it to me and I'd gold plate it..
<--- cheap attempt at earning a buck.... (or copper, nickel, silver.. anything but chrome.. nasty process)wear could be a problem, as was pointed out, but a tonearm shouldn't see too much of that.
I've had pretty good luck with Krylon.. and even the el-cheapo $.99 cans from Lowes / Home depot / your standard home store....
I used to use a water based dip lacquer on brass plated coat hangers that produced a durable protective coating, but that was 20 years ago... I'm sure an internet search could turn up some candidates
auplater
Thanks guys, very helpful...but still in doubt.
auplaters nickel palting doesn't sound too bad...
I was even thinking looking up some signshop - they shoud have an airbrush..
I used to lacquer sucessfully alum front plates after applying letraset - kept well for years w/o showing any wear. So I am a little peeved that I have so much trouble using lacquer on a tonearm. I guess - size matters...
auplaters nickel palting doesn't sound too bad...
I was even thinking looking up some signshop - they shoud have an airbrush..
I used to lacquer sucessfully alum front plates after applying letraset - kept well for years w/o showing any wear. So I am a little peeved that I have so much trouble using lacquer on a tonearm. I guess - size matters...
Spray cans can be tricky....
I have found that dunking the cans in hot water at 45-50 deg works miracles. The water should be hot, but not too hot- you should be able to hold your hand in the bucket for a while....
Spray several thin coats with some minutes in between to avoid sag.
If you can find the "liberon"series of wood treatments in a paint shop, there is something called "Zapon-lack" in that series, very good for covering polished brass and other metals ..this must be brushed on.
I have found that dunking the cans in hot water at 45-50 deg works miracles. The water should be hot, but not too hot- you should be able to hold your hand in the bucket for a while....
Spray several thin coats with some minutes in between to avoid sag.
If you can find the "liberon"series of wood treatments in a paint shop, there is something called "Zapon-lack" in that series, very good for covering polished brass and other metals ..this must be brushed on.
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