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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 12km off the alaska highway in northern BC
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Thanks, I have tried to spray laquer it, but so far using commercial available spraycans I have not succeeded in a decent job. The volume the spraycans put out is s mply way too high and not contollable.
But - varnish remover and then I will try again. Any special varnish/lacquer recommendation? Tried urethan and tremclad clear for now. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shropshire, England
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I'd suggest doing it the traditional way with brushing laquer.
Warm the tube and the laquer ( fire risk) to about 60C, and flow it on. You can use a brush if it helps, but the laquer will have a very low viscosity, and will just 'wet' the work with a thin film.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KyOhWVa tristate
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Spray lacquer should work if you don't try to cover the surface in one coat. Multiple coats with partial coverage allowing partial drying between them should work. It can be hard to prevent sags and runs on highly polished metallic surfaces... the initial partial coat helps to "anchor" subsequent coatings that "fill in" and develop a smooth surface.
The trick is to keep the nozzle far enough away to avoid an over- application and "orange peel". There are also dip lacquers that might also work. Hope this helps. auplater |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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dnsey and auplater are right. The problem with "normal" lacquer is that it will wear off. It won't last. The best, and most costly, alternative is to let a professional do it. He will high polish the tube then apply lacquer that will last.
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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You might try a local shop that repairs saxophones, trumpets, and the like... they are all laquered.
?
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KyOhWVa tristate
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... or you could send it to me and I'd gold plate it..
<--- cheap attempt at earning a buck.... (or copper, nickel, silver.. anything but chrome.. nasty process)wear could be a problem, as was pointed out, but a tonearm shouldn't see too much of that. I've had pretty good luck with Krylon.. and even the el-cheapo $.99 cans from Lowes / Home depot / your standard home store.... I used to use a water based dip lacquer on brass plated coat hangers that produced a durable protective coating, but that was 20 years ago... I'm sure an internet search could turn up some candidates auplater |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 12km off the alaska highway in northern BC
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Thanks guys, very helpful...but still in doubt.
auplaters nickel palting doesn't sound too bad... I was even thinking looking up some signshop - they shoud have an airbrush.. I used to lacquer sucessfully alum front plates after applying letraset - kept well for years w/o showing any wear. So I am a little peeved that I have so much trouble using lacquer on a tonearm. I guess - size matters... |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..
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Spray cans can be tricky....
I have found that dunking the cans in hot water at 45-50 deg works miracles. The water should be hot, but not too hot- you should be able to hold your hand in the bucket for a while.... Spray several thin coats with some minutes in between to avoid sag. If you can find the "liberon"series of wood treatments in a paint shop, there is something called "Zapon-lack" in that series, very good for covering polished brass and other metals ..this must be brushed on. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 12km off the alaska highway in northern BC
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I found a company that will chrome plate the arm. In Edmonton, Alberta.
Thanks for all the tips - I think that way it will be done well - I hope. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Netherlands
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Laquer dampens the arm, also a consideration not to re-plate it but go for a laque layer.
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