My DIY Turntable......

Paul Dimaline · 16th April 2006, 04:05 PM

...coming on nicely. Just got to get a motor and PS sorted (hence the wait for more money!). After so many useless motors I am goung to go for a brand new LP12 job as I am using a Linn subplatter. I am going to go with belt drive for the momment but with the possibility of converting it to idler drive.....not sure yet, I would have prefered a more powerfull motor if going that route, we'll se what it sounds like first.

Main plinth is made up of 4 layers of 18mm birch ply and is veneered with burr oak. I am still looking for some suitable (soft) isolating feet that are adjustable.

Outer platter is a Thorens TD160, much cheaper than a Linn item. The center needed releiving slightly (wet and dry did the trick) and I will have to make the level up with the mat as it sits too low on the Linn sub platter.

Sub platter is 2 bits of 12mm acrylic and it sits on some carbon isolators. The motor will be mounted directly on the birch ply plinth thus hopefully giving decent isolation but with a nice direct drive path. The motor sits closer to the sub platter than on a LP12 so I will have to sort out a shorter belt.

Paul.

Netlist · 16th April 2006, 04:17 PM

Very, very nice.
Is the bearing also from a TD160?

/Hugo

Paul Dimaline · 16th April 2006, 04:26 PM

No, bearing is from an LP12. It has a Thorens outer platter as I got one for £5 as opposed to £60-70 for a Linn item!!

Paul.

Aleksunder · 24th April 2006, 11:25 PM

Cool project.

If you need to shim that Thorens platter up to the Linn sub-platter, try three automotive/motorcycle valve shims.

E.g. - for my FZS600, shims are available from just over 1mm to well over 2mm in 0.01mm increments.

I used this successfully for a one-off acrylic platter I bought for my ownshend Rock whose playing surface was over 1mm below the original plaster/vinyl one.

A.

16th April 2006, 04:05 PM	#1
Paul Dimaline diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Lincolnshire, UK	My DIY Turntable...... ...coming on nicely. Just got to get a motor and PS sorted (hence the wait for more money!). After so many useless motors I am goung to go for a brand new LP12 job as I am using a Linn subplatter. I am going to go with belt drive for the momment but with the possibility of converting it to idler drive.....not sure yet, I would have prefered a more powerfull motor if going that route, we'll se what it sounds like first. Main plinth is made up of 4 layers of 18mm birch ply and is veneered with burr oak. I am still looking for some suitable (soft) isolating feet that are adjustable. Outer platter is a Thorens TD160, much cheaper than a Linn item. The center needed releiving slightly (wet and dry did the trick) and I will have to make the level up with the mat as it sits too low on the Linn sub platter. Sub platter is 2 bits of 12mm acrylic and it sits on some carbon isolators. The motor will be mounted directly on the birch ply plinth thus hopefully giving decent isolation but with a nice direct drive path. The motor sits closer to the sub platter than on a LP12 so I will have to sort out a shorter belt. Paul.

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16th April 2006, 04:17 PM	#2
Netlist diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2003	Very, very nice. Is the bearing also from a TD160? /Hugo

16th April 2006, 04:26 PM	#3
Paul Dimaline diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Lincolnshire, UK	No, bearing is from an LP12. It has a Thorens outer platter as I got one for £5 as opposed to £60-70 for a Linn item!! Paul.

24th April 2006, 11:25 PM	#4
Aleksunder diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: London	Cool project. If you need to shim that Thorens platter up to the Linn sub-platter, try three automotive/motorcycle valve shims. E.g. - for my FZS600, shims are available from just over 1mm to well over 2mm in 0.01mm increments. I used this successfully for a one-off acrylic platter I bought for my ownshend Rock whose playing surface was over 1mm below the original plaster/vinyl one. A.

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