My DIY Turntable......
...coming on nicely. Just got to get a motor and PS sorted (hence the wait for more money!). After so many useless motors I am goung to go for a brand new LP12 job as I am using a Linn subplatter. I am going to go with belt drive for the momment but with the possibility of converting it to idler drive.....not sure yet, I would have prefered a more powerfull motor if going that route, we'll se what it sounds like first.
Main plinth is made up of 4 layers of 18mm birch ply and is veneered with burr oak. I am still looking for some suitable (soft) isolating feet that are adjustable.
Outer platter is a Thorens TD160, much cheaper than a Linn item. The center needed releiving slightly (wet and dry did the trick) and I will have to make the level up with the mat as it sits too low on the Linn sub platter.
Sub platter is 2 bits of 12mm acrylic and it sits on some carbon isolators. The motor will be mounted directly on the birch ply plinth thus hopefully giving decent isolation but with a nice direct drive path. The motor sits closer to the sub platter than on a LP12 so I will have to sort out a shorter belt.
Very, very nice.
Is the bearing also from a TD160?
No, bearing is from an LP12. It has a Thorens outer platter as I got one for £5 as opposed to £60-70 for a Linn item!!
If you need to shim that Thorens platter up to the Linn sub-platter, try three automotive/motorcycle valve shims.
E.g. - for my FZS600, shims are available from just over 1mm to well over 2mm in 0.01mm increments.
I used this successfully for a one-off acrylic platter I bought for my ownshend Rock whose playing surface was over 1mm below the original plaster/vinyl one.
|All times are GMT. The time now is 10:50 PM.|
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2016 diyAudio