Thot so
So, what did you use for shield?Did you ground at both ends, or just one?
I think it would depend on whether the insulation is laquer or enamel. But, I would try dipping the end in paint remover for a half hour or so, then draw thru steel wool. That should melt the coating, then brush it off. To get it really clean afterwards, I have used jewelery cleaner (you know, the stuff they show off on TV by dipping a penney in it - I use it all the time) , then water.
Jess
Having recently acquired an Ipod shuffle to use at the gym, I have been looking at headphones a bit.
It seems that most earbuds, even the cheapest use copper litz wire, often claimed to be OFC.
As per a previous suggestion to use this as tonearm cable, is it believed to be an upgrade over say stock Linn Akito wire?
Just something to use if you have a broken wire?
I quite like the idea as Litz tends to be liked as an audio conductor and the hphone application (portable) has great flexibility as a requirement.
Would one strip the outer plastic insulation off and run inside the arm just the enamelled litz?
It seems that most earbuds, even the cheapest use copper litz wire, often claimed to be OFC.
As per a previous suggestion to use this as tonearm cable, is it believed to be an upgrade over say stock Linn Akito wire?
Just something to use if you have a broken wire?
I quite like the idea as Litz tends to be liked as an audio conductor and the hphone application (portable) has great flexibility as a requirement.
Would one strip the outer plastic insulation off and run inside the arm just the enamelled litz?
Hi,
the modern polysomething (urethane?) enamel burns off at soldering temperatures and saves damaging the ends of the wire.
Do the fluxes in lead free also achieve this?
This prolonged heating will also help anneal the ends.
The avoidance of nicks and the annealing will improve the fatigue life of the copper just at the point where it is likely to break.
the modern polysomething (urethane?) enamel burns off at soldering temperatures and saves damaging the ends of the wire.
Do the fluxes in lead free also achieve this?
This prolonged heating will also help anneal the ends.
The avoidance of nicks and the annealing will improve the fatigue life of the copper just at the point where it is likely to break.
Enjoying this thread, trying to get as much info before I DIY a turntable to go with the rest of my DIY system.
If you wanted to wrap the wires, would teflon plumbers tape be a good thing to try, I have made interconnects using cat 5 cables wrapped with a foil sheath and then teflon tape to hold the foil tight followed by shoelace outers. The foil is then earthed to the - post. THis has worked very very well, absolutely no noise pick up in the system at all.
Plumbers tape is cheap as chips and easy to get and you could use several thicknesses is you wanted.
I am looking to building a resin coated woden unipivot tonearm with the cables run along the top through small eyelets, so I was considering a downsized version of my cables, with just the wires where it exits the arm above the pivot. I am a little worried about picking up noise.
If you wanted to wrap the wires, would teflon plumbers tape be a good thing to try, I have made interconnects using cat 5 cables wrapped with a foil sheath and then teflon tape to hold the foil tight followed by shoelace outers. The foil is then earthed to the - post. THis has worked very very well, absolutely no noise pick up in the system at all.
Plumbers tape is cheap as chips and easy to get and you could use several thicknesses is you wanted.
I am looking to building a resin coated woden unipivot tonearm with the cables run along the top through small eyelets, so I was considering a downsized version of my cables, with just the wires where it exits the arm above the pivot. I am a little worried about picking up noise.
I've used this one too - good. Even better is to salvage some braid from old RF cable (antenna coax), do up your Cat5, thread it thru the braid and solder a short wire to one end of the braid only. Then finish the ends with heat-shrink, leaving the wire protruding. Connect the wire to the ground post at the preamp end - no hum and the interconnect stays intact - looks good too!
I have a Grace 714 tonearm on my Unity Rotary Platform table - I tried buidling a copy for fun a few years ago. Bad hum. On the Grace the wires run thru a brass tube set into the bottom of the teak arm. So, on my clone, I tried running the wires thru a fine braid, grounded at the termination strip. This worked aces. You just have to find a fine coax to be donor for the braid.
Happy building
Jess
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