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Old 28th March 2006, 11:31 PM   #21
JesseG is offline JesseG  Canada
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Quote:
From ericpeters
I've twisted them slichtly after exiting the arm but I've put a separate shield around it wich was connected to ground.
Thot so So, what did you use for shield?
Did you ground at both ends, or just one?

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From nuvistor
Note that insulation can't be removed by soldering iron with these small wire gauges, I've scraped them with a small knife, any better suggestions?
I think it would depend on whether the insulation is laquer or enamel. But, I would try dipping the end in paint remover for a half hour or so, then draw thru steel wool. That should melt the coating, then brush it off. To get it really clean afterwards, I have used jewelery cleaner (you know, the stuff they show off on TV by dipping a penney in it - I use it all the time) , then water.

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Old 29th March 2006, 08:10 AM   #22
fergs1 is offline fergs1  Australia
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greetings I was under the impression that the best way to remove the enamel from the ends is to use a match and flame it of and then a quick wire wool and away you go
cheers fergs
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Old 29th March 2006, 10:03 AM   #23
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The shield is connected to the ground wire at the tonearr end only. The ground cable is connected to the pre-amp case (not the phono stage) from trial and error this was the best result in my setup
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Old 29th March 2006, 10:42 AM   #24
dnsey is offline dnsey  United Kingdom
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Quote:
I would try dipping the end in paint remover for a half hour or so, then draw thru steel wool.
but be very careful of the noxious fumes evolved by the remaining traces of stripper when you heat the wire to solder it
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Old 29th March 2006, 11:49 AM   #25
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you can try burning the insulation with flame(not too strong). with lacquer it works...
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Old 29th March 2006, 04:09 PM   #26
JesseG is offline JesseG  Canada
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Quote:
From ericpeters
The shield is connected to the ground wire at the tonearr end only. The ground cable is connected to the pre-amp case (not the phono stage) from trial and error this was the best result in my setup
Thanks ericpeters - I have been considering rewiring my mouse cable rewire to run continuous from cart to phono stage input, and will add grounded shield to this new one.

I wouldn't have thought of grounding to the pre instead of the phono stage - I am going to try this also.
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Old 8th May 2006, 12:41 PM   #27
tubenut is offline tubenut  South Africa
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Having recently acquired an Ipod shuffle to use at the gym, I have been looking at headphones a bit.
It seems that most earbuds, even the cheapest use copper litz wire, often claimed to be OFC.

As per a previous suggestion to use this as tonearm cable, is it believed to be an upgrade over say stock Linn Akito wire?
Just something to use if you have a broken wire?

I quite like the idea as Litz tends to be liked as an audio conductor and the hphone application (portable) has great flexibility as a requirement.

Would one strip the outer plastic insulation off and run inside the arm just the enamelled litz?
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Old 14th May 2006, 05:26 AM   #28
lancer is offline lancer  Singapore
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Default 0.1 mm

I rewired my RB 250 with enamelled solid core copper wires. Twist pair of wire on a drill and for removing lacquer on ends (soldiering purpose) twiddle wire on fingers and
scrap with hobby knife. I must say I had very good results and with minimal cost outlay.
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Old 14th May 2006, 08:12 AM   #29
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Hi,
what diameter/thickness?
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Old 14th May 2006, 08:19 AM   #30
lancer is offline lancer  Singapore
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Hello Andrew,

It's 0.1 mm diameter.
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