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#31 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Survey says: Least happiest city in Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
I had a look at your arm. Nice work. I like your logic, too. Why buy an expensive tonearm when you can spend that money on fun tools to make your own? I may make two arms, one with pivoting headshell and one without. Max |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Do post some pictures when you make your arms.
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
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How do you shield the wires to the cartridge?
I get lots of hum in a wooden tube tonearm. Tom |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
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shielding the tonearm cables can be as simple as wrapping them in metalized mylar , or tin foil and attaching a wire from the shield to ground. Also where is your motor in relation to the tonearm?
__________________
stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane." |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
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The motor is on the opposite side of the arm. Do you wrap the shield inside the tonearm?
Where do you obtain the metallized mylar? Tom |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
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metalized mylar is sometimes sold as "emergency blankets" , you know those ultra thin, I can't possibly stay warm with THAT...
http://www.hisystems.co.uk/emergblk.htm cheap and enough mylar to last a lifetime!. I'd just tape a tinned end of a wire to the mylar. Should work. Alternately you can use thicker tin foil or light weight copper foil if you can find some. Not sure if anyone sells a DIY type wire shielding material ...
__________________
stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane." |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bolton, UK
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Yet another way that I've used before is to salvage some of the braid from a section of co-ax. when you pull it correctly, it reduces in girth, AND you can solder it without difficulty. You can also pull threads out to reduce mass if required.
I've been toying with a uni-pivot design that I'd like some comments on. The problem I percieve with many unipivots is a tendancy for dynamics to be compressed. This usually is because all of the motion as well as the securement of the arm rests about one bearing, which often is given to a degree of play. Without getting embroiled into any spurious debates, I'd cite the Naim Arrow as having this virtue inbuilt in its very concept. Where there is a feasability for transient energy from the disk to pull the arm along with it (and don't forget the the compensatatory rearward motion) this is definately going to happen. Although I can understand the numerous intrinsic virtues of magnetically stabilised bearings, I cannot for one moment imagine that a magnet will absolutely resist a transient pull or "drag" which for my mind, puts it in the same arena. Also, by decoupling the arm from any kind of securing, you're also depriving it of any means of rapidly dissipating any standing energy. Hmm. I remember reading a review some years ago of a Well Tempered design that incorporated a silver high mass tone arm apparently supported only by "fishing line!". The vague description simply got my brain fuzzing over the different ways in which this could be accomplished. After battering all of the first ideas that sprang to mind, I came up with what I hope is a fairly origional idea that owes more to the torsional properties of fishing line than any thing else. The "bearing" consists of a horizontal coupling between the tonearm and the mounting, being the smallest measure of line required to execute the arc (dependant on the tonearm length of course) of an LP. Where the couplings are coneshaped, the degree of line required should be short enough to bear the weight of the arm without showing any secondary flexing. In order to provide a mechanical link with the base to dissipate residual energy, some measure of the arm (preferably towards the "bearing") should be immersed in a heavy silicone solution. Other than that, all of the usual gravitational control methods apply. Any thoughts? Cheers, Jezz
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Idlers ROCK! |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Survey says: Least happiest city in Canada
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Jezz,
Can you draw us a diagram of your cone and thread idea? I can't quite picture it from your description. Oh, and that should be Naim ARO. Max |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bolton, UK
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Sorry - absolutely right; Aro - but at least that means you're familiar with the "cup & saucer" principle. In answer to your request, I've knocked up the following diagram of the "bearing" or union as I supose would be more accurate (only a schematic).
Cheers, Jezz
__________________
Idlers ROCK! |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
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basically the tonearm is supported on the "paddle" which, inturn is supported in a silicon viscous fluid and by a thread.
__________________
stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane." |
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