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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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Earlier I had asked for some suggestions on a cartridge for getting my old Thorens back in action and the information was very helpful (thanks everyone!). I am refining my plans and would like to run some thoughts by the experts.
The TT has what appears to be a pretty massive, straight tonearm (see attached photo) with no antiskate. Based on what I have read the most appropriate cartridge would seem to be a fairly low compliance model with spherical stylus ala disc jockey. What do you think of using a Shure M35x as an economical starter cartridge and trading up to a better tonearm-cartridge combination as $$$s permit? It appears that the only adjustments are the pivot height and tracking force. However the headshell is held on with the single knurled screw on top and it can be moved in and out and maybe turned a little bit that way. I need to read up on proper adjustment a bit before I try to get it set up. Do you think that it would be possibly to set up this tonearm with a DIY antiskate system using some fishing line, a little pulley and some small weights? mike thanks for your patience. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eugene, OR
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Personally, I wouldn't spend 1 minute or 1 dollar on that arm.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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Well I suppose I understand why you say that but unfortunately it is either that one or build the wooden Altmann.
There is no budget for a tonearm at this point. Are you saying that the existing arm can not be used without damaging my records or just that it will sound crappy? I can take crappy but I don't want to ruin the recordings. mike |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eugene, OR
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Well, I wouldn't put my records under it. Maybe someone who knows that arm will pipe in and give it a clean bill of health but I'm sceptical of that happening.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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Quote:
I don't really know what that arm is but yes, it looks frightful. As it may well have high bearing friction it might eat your records. If your funds are limited why don't you sell the TT on ebay and buy something simple but proven (Rega 3, Thorens 160 etc) which comes with a real arm? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shropshire, England
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Is that a TD 124?
If so, I'd happily consider swapping with you for a Linn with SME 3009. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Some good points- check for pivot friction and play. If there's any hangup, rattling, or "sticky" bits (especially when initiating movement), you don't want to use that arm. Even if not, at its age, it will probably need disassembly, cleaning, re-lubrication, and re-adjustment of the bearings. That's do-able, but there's a high "sproing" factor involved.
If all is smooth and lovely, you can get by with a cheap Grado.
__________________
"...we stumble and get up, we are sad, confident, insecure, feel loneliness and joy and love. There is nothing more; but I want nothing more.” - Christopher Hitchens 1949-2011 |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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Thank you for all of the informative posts.
I took the thing off to get a closer look and it looks like salvaging it is not practical. It is a General Electric TM-2G by the way. It was originally installed as a mono unit and rewired for stereo. I don't know how heavy it is since I can't put my hands on an appropriate scale right now. There is a crack in the frame from over torqueing the rough balance adjustment knob, a broken pivot pin, and quite a bit of side to side slack where the support goes through the mounting flange. The crack would probably be easily repaired but the other problems are, I suspect, more involved. Am I right in assuming that the wobble would be a major flaw? Dnsey: Thanks for the offer but it has rather substantial sentimental value and the platter and bearings seem to be in excellent condition. Sy: Interestingly other than the above mentioned slop it seems to move quite freely with no scraping or binding. There was some resistance due to the hookup wires being rather stiff (looks like 20 gauge plastic insulated). I considered saving up a little to get one of the radio shack $99 belt drives but this is a DIY site so I probably ought to at least consider a more hands on approach. Just how rediculous would it be to try something like This ? mike |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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BTW, what is the proper wire to use for a tonearm? Many of the pics I have seen look like very light gauge magnet wire.
mike |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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You have exhausted your one minute with that "arm". Bin it. Then, nip down to a model shop and buy some balsa wood. Then kludge together a unipivot bearing out of a ball point pen tip. Throw some really fine (multicore) wire at it, strap on a counterweight, and you'll have something far better for peanuts. It won't be pretty, mind, but it'll sound much better. I'm sure there's a balsa arm design floating about on the net somewhere.
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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