Hello,
First the Pr0n.
Worked first time! no issues
Did'nt like the OPA2132 so I switched it for a AD8620 nice
Socketed the input resistors, should have done the gain resistors too, but it was too late when the thought came across my mind.
Thank You Richard.
First the Pr0n.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Worked first time! no issues
Did'nt like the OPA2132 so I switched it for a AD8620 nice
Socketed the input resistors, should have done the gain resistors too, but it was too late when the thought came across my mind.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thank You Richard.
Last edited:
Hello all,
I recently completed a phonoclone 3 build and I am very happy with it. I socketed R1 and R2 but I'm not happy with the result. I have already bent one socket while putting in a resistor. Maybe I just picked a substandard socket. What is a good quality socket to use? I do intend to switch cartridges fairly often.
I wonder if a terminal block such as Mouser part 845-MV-253 would work better. It is a 3 pin pcb mount with 5.08mm pin spacing, so the end pins are 10.16 mm apart which I believe is the correct spacing. I would remove the middle pin.
Does this seem like a workable idea? What other solutions have people come up with for easy R1 and R2 substitution?
Thanks,
Mark
I recently completed a phonoclone 3 build and I am very happy with it. I socketed R1 and R2 but I'm not happy with the result. I have already bent one socket while putting in a resistor. Maybe I just picked a substandard socket. What is a good quality socket to use? I do intend to switch cartridges fairly often.
I wonder if a terminal block such as Mouser part 845-MV-253 would work better. It is a 3 pin pcb mount with 5.08mm pin spacing, so the end pins are 10.16 mm apart which I believe is the correct spacing. I would remove the middle pin.
Does this seem like a workable idea? What other solutions have people come up with for easy R1 and R2 substitution?
Thanks,
Mark
Richard, this is a very nice phono stage you have designed. I have been using mine with a shinon red since late last year. I would like to get a bit more high end brightness and think changing resistor values may help. I have a frequency sweep of this rig and it shows that its rolling off.
Now, I am not sure which resistors to mess with. I swapped R1 but am not sure this is the right way to go about it. I know this is different than a typical phono stage, so I wanted to ask.
Thank you.
Evan
Now, I am not sure which resistors to mess with. I swapped R1 but am not sure this is the right way to go about it. I know this is different than a typical phono stage, so I wanted to ask.
Thank you.
Evan
Evan the RIAA is perfect as it is. I would suggest trying a better C3 cap and checking that your VTA is not too low.
Mark I am really against using things as sockets, but I have seen people using screw terminals. You are asking if it will work better. Well mecahnically probably, but I do not know what it will bring in the sonic side of things.
My approach would be to expose some nice and comfortable pads so that I could solder and desolder easily the resistors directly to them
Dimitri
Mark I am really against using things as sockets, but I have seen people using screw terminals. You are asking if it will work better. Well mecahnically probably, but I do not know what it will bring in the sonic side of things.
My approach would be to expose some nice and comfortable pads so that I could solder and desolder easily the resistors directly to them
Dimitri
Well to be fair, the final result depends a lot on your other setup too, so I can only guess what could be wrong.
From my experience with Richard's kits, the single point that needed upgrade was C3. What I tried to fix in my setup was slightly problematic highs and weak lows. I used a Mudorf supreme (no silver, no oil, the plain black ones) and the result was top notch in all aspects.
From my experience with Richard's kits, the single point that needed upgrade was C3. What I tried to fix in my setup was slightly problematic highs and weak lows. I used a Mudorf supreme (no silver, no oil, the plain black ones) and the result was top notch in all aspects.
i felt the same way when i built mine using a wima mkp on the output . then i installed , i think it was jensen poly's and BIG improvement .
i've got the mundorf's here and going to try them when time allows
cheers Woody
Richard. Having read Happiness is Z Shaped I was wondering about using z foils as R1 in my PhonoClone. Not cheap I know but worth it? What do you think?
Well it s when people start talking about miraculous changes that I try to hold a small basket... Especially the RF suppressing change described is a bit suspicious...
It could be a nice test though. Lots of people regard them very highly. If I had easy access to some I would give them a try.
Perhaps I will try to get some with my next order and try them along with my next mod to increase the gain a bit
It could be a nice test though. Lots of people regard them very highly. If I had easy access to some I would give them a try.
Perhaps I will try to get some with my next order and try them along with my next mod to increase the gain a bit
Dmitri, Thanks for your thoughts, but do you think the board is strong enough to withstand three or four desolder/solder's per year?
Mark
The output noise of the phonoclone is defined by the op amp, not the input resistors, so there is technically no advantage in using low noise resistors.
A bulk foil resistor also has very low inductance, which can have certain advantages re. RFI interference or feedback stability.
My opinion? I don't think the improvement will be worth the cost in this application. If I was going to try, though, I'd go with the Vishay as being half the price and properly encapsulated as well.
No. As Richard verified.
I was talking about something like that.
Another approach I have seen around is soldering the resistors directly on the RCA sockets.