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#781 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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#782 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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Well, I just soldered mine in whatever way they come to hand.... tell you what, if you cut the ends of the leads equal you won't have to worry about it!
Fran |
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#783 | |
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Richard Murdey
diyAudio Member
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The position sees no DC bias (unlike coupling caps in a tube amp) so electrically there is no distinction between up and down. |
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#784 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#785 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Thank Peter
Here is also a link that i find http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/bl...e/techEcap.htm you can read about the inner and outer foil. Fran and Richard it was just a question, is it so stupid ? |
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#786 |
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Richard Murdey
diyAudio Member
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There are no stupid questions ... just stupid answers.
Anyone seeing the long and short leads on the supposedly non-polar cap is going to wonder along similar lines. While there is a difference mechanically between the two ends of the capacitor, which may or may not make a difference ... Peter thinks they do and he is entitled to his opinion ... I contend that under a pure AC signal there is no relevent electrical distinction between the signal "entering" and "leaving"... the difference can only manifest when the cap is under DC bias. That, in turn, is my opinion. I do however make sure the caps are both connected the same "direction" between the two channels, but I dont keep consistency from build to build. You may all do as you please. Richard |
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#787 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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Ah jeez, it was only a joke....
No one suffers from RJMs' aforementioned component nervosa more than me I can assure you. When I see stuff like that ie a cap thats nonpolar, shouldn't matter which way you connect it, and yet one lead is left longer than the other I'm tempted to subscribe to the machina dynamica mode of thought about audio. Fran |
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#789 | |
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Richard Murdey
diyAudio Member
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The short lead of the BG-N is the inner foil. The long lead is the outer foil and seemingly the case. Thus if it really matters to you and you want to follow Peter Daniel's advice, you should connect the short lead the pad marked "+" on the board. Gack! Reading through that hideous translation again makes my head spin. ![]() Richard PS. (on the super e-cap) Look, seriously, if you take two inductors and connect them in parallel, you get half the inductance, half the ESR, and twice the stray capacitance. Even if there is any asymmetry in the way the coils are wound, for example, you cant simply cancel out the inductance by connecting one of the inductors "backwards". Until someone can give me a sensible response to that - preferably with some measurements - I'm not buying it. |
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#790 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: KL
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Hi Guys,
I would like to build a phono clone for a friend who has a Audio Technica AT-F3 MC catridge. The specification shows that the impedance is 12ohms. May I Know what is the optimum R2 for this catridge? Thannks. |
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