Ticking sound?
Hello, I've built my VSPS and I'm quite pleased with it for the most part. However, when I turn it up quite loud and use headphones, and have nothing playing this ticking is audible: Nextcloud
I've heard of humming or buzzing being grounding issues, but I have no idea what this ticking could be. Anyone have any ideas?
Hello, I've built my VSPS and I'm quite pleased with it for the most part. However, when I turn it up quite loud and use headphones, and have nothing playing this ticking is audible: Nextcloud
I've heard of humming or buzzing being grounding issues, but I have no idea what this ticking could be. Anyone have any ideas?
I think it is some kind of grounding issue.
The buzz at the back sounds like it comes from the mains but the repeated noise on top is another kind of interference.
Try to do your best with proper grounding and also try to move the signal input wires as far away as possible from the transformer.
Better use coaxial types like RG58 for those in/out connections.
Do you have any cell, wifi or other wireless gear nearby? Sounds like that could be the issue.
That looks unusually unpleasant. Curiously, considering the shared power rails, the problem seems to be worse in on channel than the other, or at least very different. There's a ton of sharp spikes appearing at 60 Hz.
wifi and cell interference does cause ticking and clicking, but in my experience its on a much slower timescale and random. The spikes are more like rectifier diode switching noise, or motor commutation switching noise, most usual culprits are things like power tools or hair-dryers.
It's hard to know right off the bat whether the problem is your environment or lack of proper sheilding of the VSPS. Proper sheilding and grounding should guard against it, but there are limits all the same.
Given the different noise in the channels, it might be the noise is getting in at the input stage, i.e. the wiring between the phono stage and the turntable.
Do you still get the noise with the inputs unplugged (preferably shorted)?
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Not the most ideal layout.
1. Running unshielded, untwisted AC wiring on three sides of the VSPS board.
2. Putting the transformer right next to the VSPS board and input wires.
3. Tangling up the input and output wires. Not twisting the intput wires into neat +\- pairs.
4. No ground lug for the turntable.
5. The RCA sheilds connects directly to the metal case, but also connect back to the board IN- and OUT-. GND pad appears unused.
6. One of the output capacitors is almost directly in contact with both the AC line and rectified secondary V++/V-- lines.
7. The case is full of holes, and appears to have no lid?
My advice is first, to move everything to a larger, properly shielded metal case. Second, use insulated RCA jacks. Third, connect the case to the GND pad of the VSPS. Fourth, use twised pair wiring for the intput and output wires, and keep the input and output wires away from each other as much as possible**.
** The VSPS is a noninverting circuit, so if the output signal can couple back to the input positive feedback will result and signal noise will be reinforced rather than cancelled. My gut feeling is most of your problems can be traced back here. Op amps have extremely high open loop gain, and are very sensitive to input-output coupling. The input wires should be separate and at right angles to the output wires, as much as physically possible.
RM
PS attached image shows someone elses build, in a similar all-in-one, recycled-case design. Noticed how the AC wires are kept as far away from the VSPS as possible, the signal line length is minimal, and teh input and output lines are completely separate. (this is an older version of the board, where the output pads are the other side of the op amp)
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Hi,
Finally managed to find time! Read alot about new and exciting things in the realm turntables and their fiddly things. Only 200ish pages read thus far so a few still to go...to the point!
Attached my VSPS project mid preassembly before final wiring. Also my first Fusion 360 model for the old 3D printer to chew up. Usually i take something from Thingyverse and use the old hammer and drill techniques to bend the last few details. The box is biggest i can push out at 18cm long (20x20 bed but 18 is safe limit i like). This and the fact that i wanted to maximize the distance between the amp and transformer made me flip them on the opposite sides. Made the box also higher but this way i can keep the wires nice and neat without mixing them together. And add some thick ALfoil around the chambers if i need to address the shielding. I'm using the medical grade transformer and hopefully that reduces the need for all around shielding in the box. Few things i need to improve on the model before i'm hapoy and another ~13h print awaits!
I upgraded the main couplers to Jentzen Z-caps and i have couple of basic Mundorf 640v on the side if i get the feel to fiddle about with the tone. I got the small red caps matched at 2.984 and 2.987. This drives me nuts as the target is 3! I think i'll survive
I'm using the RJM board from Richard. Very nice board and quality is superb, made soldering easier than ever.
I'll release the STLs to thingyverse with notes once i get this tuned in and modified to my liking.
Finally managed to find time! Read alot about new and exciting things in the realm turntables and their fiddly things. Only 200ish pages read thus far so a few still to go...to the point!
Attached my VSPS project mid preassembly before final wiring. Also my first Fusion 360 model for the old 3D printer to chew up. Usually i take something from Thingyverse and use the old hammer and drill techniques to bend the last few details. The box is biggest i can push out at 18cm long (20x20 bed but 18 is safe limit i like). This and the fact that i wanted to maximize the distance between the amp and transformer made me flip them on the opposite sides. Made the box also higher but this way i can keep the wires nice and neat without mixing them together. And add some thick ALfoil around the chambers if i need to address the shielding. I'm using the medical grade transformer and hopefully that reduces the need for all around shielding in the box. Few things i need to improve on the model before i'm hapoy and another ~13h print awaits!
I upgraded the main couplers to Jentzen Z-caps and i have couple of basic Mundorf 640v on the side if i get the feel to fiddle about with the tone. I got the small red caps matched at 2.984 and 2.987. This drives me nuts as the target is 3! I think i'll survive
I'm using the RJM board from Richard. Very nice board and quality is superb, made soldering easier than ever.I'll release the STLs to thingyverse with notes once i get this tuned in and modified to my liking.
Attachments
I got the small red caps matched at 2.984 and 2.987. This drives me nuts as the target is 3! I think i'll survive
I matched mine to 2974pf for both channels, I was pretty happy.
Interesting build, let us know how it turns out.
I had these, the link is for black ones, these have the two plastic flanges that isolate the plug from the case. The plastic rings have a small lip that centers to the hole in the case so the RCA plug wont hit inside of the hole.
NYS367-0 REAN / Neutrik | Mouser Europe
Actually, those places aren't the best place to look. The one's Nkarhunen posted are about the only ones they sell.
You can pick them up on ebay or any online store selling audio parts, hifhi collective or partsconnexion.
These are cheap but they'll get the job done:
10Pcs Gold Plated Female RCA Phono Jack Panel Mount Chassis Connector 'Socket HO | eBay
That one won't ship to my address. Is this one ok? 20pcs/lot Panel Mount Gold Plated RCA Female plug Jack Audio Socket Amplifier Chassis Phono Connector with nut solder cup-in Connectors from Lights & Lighting on AliExpress
Those will do. The link Richard gave was for Ebay US, if you are in Europe or close by, Ebay.co.uk has buch of stuff that you can get a bit faster than Ali or Banggood from china.
Like these from UK to Europe region. The choice is yours, as long as you get those isolation rings.
10PCS RCA Female Chassis Panel Mount Jack Socket Connector 24K Gold Plated GL 601404055087 | eBay