The choices depend so much on taste, budget, preference, and locale ... I generally don't make suggestions. Mainly though because I don't want to take responsibility. "Oh the case is too small" "Oh these are poor value" etc etc. Below is a rough guide:
a) box for PSU and box for the preamp (black hammond or something?) So many codes and Im not sure what to look for.
Hammond 1590F will see you good for the preamp and power supply if you want to have the power supply separate. You can maybe go smaller but ...
b) power cable between PSU and pre. I see some cool looking with outer sleeves but I dont now how they technically called :S
Just cannibalize a power cord and use that. The fancy sleeve is just that ... you buy it separately and thread the wire through it.
c) power socket with switch
Anything, but the ones with the fuse holder included are convenient. That's if you don't mind the switch in the back. Else, some sort of toggle switch front mounted, standard IEC power socket + fuse in back.
d) RCA? thats easy but I see some nice ones in here well secured etc.
I'm not touching that.You tend to get what you pay for though.
e) Fuse?/Fuse holder? I never did electronics with fuses. only low power things.
See above, get the power socket fuse holder assembly.
f) most use XLR plugs for power? are these normal XLR?
Neutrik, or ITT Cannon, or whatever. 3 pin. Yes, the choices here are a bit dizzying, but on the upside it doesn't really matter.
Thanks for the comments!
1) I want to build the PSU on its own box. Should the power switch be only on the 240V side? or another one on the preamp side?
2) I had a bit a silly idea (as the black pcb etc looks cool). Will an open air setup work? Like a metal plate with the pcb and the RCA/XLR looking up? like a "open casket tube amp".
With some cool wire colouring etc it can be quite cool.
Is it better if the pre-amp is completely enclosed with metal? or open is ok? (RFI etc)
Thanks Richard, I have placed my main mouser order and now Im looking for some leftover caps for the audio path. (mouser did have the Muse in stock too).
Gia Niko,
Yes, following Richard's post above, I think Ill do something like your. Looks cool.
I might play with some lazercut clear plexi for the top and paint it black as the greek misses are notorious for they sensitive WAF rating
Thanks all! Ill come back with some questions on the alternative caps when I get a better understanding of the schematic. (hificollective uk seems to have a lot!)
the joy of DIY is that everything can be customized according to your needs and imagination..
here's my view on a "Emerald" based phono stage I put together a few months ago..
custom made pcb for the rectification and the aux power supply, delay relay to get rid of the popping noise as a result of capacitors charging/ discharging during on/off operation, cartridge loading and gain selectors at the front panel..
here's my view on a "Emerald" based phono stage I put together a few months ago..
custom made pcb for the rectification and the aux power supply, delay relay to get rid of the popping noise as a result of capacitors charging/ discharging during on/off operation, cartridge loading and gain selectors at the front panel..
Thanks Richard, I have placed my main mouser order and now Im looking for some leftover caps for the audio path. (mouser did have the Muse in stock too).
Gia Niko,
Yes, following Richard's post above, I think Ill do something like your. Looks cool.
I might play with some lazercut clear plexi for the top and paint it black as the greek misses are notorious for they sensitive WAF rating
Thanks all! Ill come back with some questions on the alternative caps when I get a better understanding of the schematic. (hificollective uk seems to have a lot!)
Attachments
Mouser order is here!!
Im missing the Nichicon Caps and I was thinking about upgrades for the audio path too. The KEMET barrel too. Any pointers?
I see in some images posted my RJM (other builds maybe) and others that you use another resistor brand, Red ones. Are these "PRP PR9372"? or something else? I have hificollective that I can get a couple of things.
Thanks!
EDIT: may I also ask the significance of 791-RC1/4-470JB? I dont know the brand and it seems to be just one on the output of the second OP. I've got some Ohmite same specs, are these 'better'??
Im missing the Nichicon Caps and I was thinking about upgrades for the audio path too. The KEMET barrel too. Any pointers?
I see in some images posted my RJM (other builds maybe) and others that you use another resistor brand, Red ones. Are these "PRP PR9372"? or something else? I have hificollective that I can get a couple of things.
Thanks!
EDIT: may I also ask the significance of 791-RC1/4-470JB? I dont know the brand and it seems to be just one on the output of the second OP. I've got some Ohmite same specs, are these 'better'??
Attachments
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Kemet caps can be upgraded to audio film cap of same or similar value.
Red resistors would be PRP. The build quality is relatively poor, I don't recommend them. The black Welwyns were nice, but are long gone.
791-RC1/4-470JB is a 47 ohm carbon comp. resistor. I prefer carbon comp in that position, but I don't care about the brand. The BOM one is made by Kamaya, perfectly fine.
Red resistors would be PRP. The build quality is relatively poor, I don't recommend them. The black Welwyns were nice, but are long gone.
791-RC1/4-470JB is a 47 ohm carbon comp. resistor. I prefer carbon comp in that position, but I don't care about the brand. The BOM one is made by Kamaya, perfectly fine.
Yes, the Emerald has the MM/MC switch built in.
No particular opinion on Kiwame... never used them. They are a small Japanese audio-specific brand, as I understand it, bu I can find no evidence from Japanese search engines that such a company or product exists... they only seem to be sold through HiFi Collective, that kind of place.
Industrial flameproof carbon film resistors re-branded for the boutique audio market. Someone is making easy money here.
@Magister Mundus
web page
BOM attached for convenience
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Hi! I have a VSPS Rev. 47b that after testing, I left unused as it presented RFI and I was unable to debug/fix.
Today my tube phono stage falied, so I will try to put my VSPS to work...
I'd like to update my cct to the last version (52b?_). What are the differences on the circuit?
Do the performance improvements justify the upgrade?
Also, It would be great if you can give me some hints on how to eliminate the RFI (I hear a radio station as soon I turn on the VSPS).
Thanks in advance!
Today my tube phono stage falied, so I will try to put my VSPS to work...
I'd like to update my cct to the last version (52b?_). What are the differences on the circuit?
Do the performance improvements justify the upgrade?
Also, It would be great if you can give me some hints on how to eliminate the RFI (I hear a radio station as soon I turn on the VSPS).
Thanks in advance!
No, the revisions of the stereo VSPS are largely cosmetic. The only change to the circuit was the removal of the 50 kHz time constant from the RIAA equalization. You can make that modification yourself on your older boards just by shorting over the resistor R3/R3L.
That's a problem people experience sometimes. I have not found a surefire solution, but keep all wire loop areas to a minimum, shield everything especially the phono cable, and try different op amps. FET input types like the OPA2134 are more resistant to RFI than bipolar types like the NE5532.
Thanks for the fast response!
Best regards
OK, I'll do that... How about the resistors values slightly differents (105k to 110k, 732k to 768k, also the input and output resistors)? Is it worth to replace them?
Thanks for the hint, I have some 2134 here and will make some tests...
Best regards